Noticing a trend along the ICW on the East Coast of the U.S., mint green appears to be the color for the upcoming season...
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Mint Green is this Seaon's Color
Noticing a trend along the ICW on the East Coast of the U.S., mint green appears to be the color for the upcoming season...
Friday, June 20, 2008
Beaufort, NC
Porpoises playing off the bowS/V Wanderin' Star amid mega yachts at Beaufort Docks, NC
So much for NOAA weather predictions during our offshore passage up the coast...initially the wind was not out of the east or southeast, then it was not enough to put out the sails. We got 10-15 knots downwind the last few hours into Beaufort with building seas to 6 feet. Lovely motoring for 55 hours with porpoises playing off the bow, and an arrival into Beaufort late Monday afternoon (16 June).
Jenny explores the blocks of historic homes (over 100 covering early 1700s to early 1900s) during her morning runs. The North Carolina Maritime Museum is great with a variety of exhibits and ship models. We also wandered through the Old Town Cemetery and stopped for refreshments at the Backstreet Pub. The Beaufort Docks marina has a courtesy car, so we cruised to a grocery store in a Buick Roadmaster station wagon with strips of headliner hanging down rather decoratively.
Jacqueline (know her family from Texas, Krossman) met us for dinner at Clawson's Tuesday night. Her husband, Art, (Marine) is in Afghanistan. Missed Michael's (her dad) visit to North Carolina on his motorcycle a week or so ago. Heard he was wearing his old flight helmet and got an offer of $300 for it (sounding a bit like the movie "Wild Hogs").
Time for a bit of history...Beaufort was established in 1709 (300 years next year) by the British as a seaport after the Coree Indians, then French Huguenots inhabited the area. Unfortunately, the nearby rivers did not extend very far inland, so this port remained small and isolated from the rest of the state. Pirate Blackbeard's (Edward Teach) flagship, Queen Anne's Revenge, has been found offshore and its artifacts are in the Maritime Museum. North Carolina was not a great slave state, thus it was the 2d to last state to join the Confederacy. During the Civil War, North Carolina's low enthusiasm for the war kept the state fairly untouched. The Union army had a presence in Beaufort and the surrounding area by 1862 with the locals continuing life pretty much as usual.
Monday (23d June), the Star is going into a boatyard at Core Creek. Time for a bottom paint job and a survey inspection (needed every 3 years for insurance).
So much for NOAA weather predictions during our offshore passage up the coast...initially the wind was not out of the east or southeast, then it was not enough to put out the sails. We got 10-15 knots downwind the last few hours into Beaufort with building seas to 6 feet. Lovely motoring for 55 hours with porpoises playing off the bow, and an arrival into Beaufort late Monday afternoon (16 June).
Jenny explores the blocks of historic homes (over 100 covering early 1700s to early 1900s) during her morning runs. The North Carolina Maritime Museum is great with a variety of exhibits and ship models. We also wandered through the Old Town Cemetery and stopped for refreshments at the Backstreet Pub. The Beaufort Docks marina has a courtesy car, so we cruised to a grocery store in a Buick Roadmaster station wagon with strips of headliner hanging down rather decoratively.
Jacqueline (know her family from Texas, Krossman) met us for dinner at Clawson's Tuesday night. Her husband, Art, (Marine) is in Afghanistan. Missed Michael's (her dad) visit to North Carolina on his motorcycle a week or so ago. Heard he was wearing his old flight helmet and got an offer of $300 for it (sounding a bit like the movie "Wild Hogs").
Time for a bit of history...Beaufort was established in 1709 (300 years next year) by the British as a seaport after the Coree Indians, then French Huguenots inhabited the area. Unfortunately, the nearby rivers did not extend very far inland, so this port remained small and isolated from the rest of the state. Pirate Blackbeard's (Edward Teach) flagship, Queen Anne's Revenge, has been found offshore and its artifacts are in the Maritime Museum. North Carolina was not a great slave state, thus it was the 2d to last state to join the Confederacy. During the Civil War, North Carolina's low enthusiasm for the war kept the state fairly untouched. The Union army had a presence in Beaufort and the surrounding area by 1862 with the locals continuing life pretty much as usual.
Monday (23d June), the Star is going into a boatyard at Core Creek. Time for a bottom paint job and a survey inspection (needed every 3 years for insurance).
First home/inn (1709) in Beaufort, NC (vessels once lined up on this home to get into port)
Captain Otway's grave (left with the cannon), famous in the War of 1812 with his vessel, Snapdragon - privateer issued a government note to serve under the new U.S. Navy
Walkway between buildings and a ghost haunting an attic
Another rough day for Bobby
Friday, June 13, 2008
Jekyll Island, Georgia
Bobby feeding the fish off Cumberland Island, GAJekyll Island Club and one of the rustic millionaire's cottage, Jekyll Island, GA
A nanny's comments in a letter sent home about winter life on Jekyll Island
Before we left NAS Jacksonville, afternoon thunderstorms pushed us hard into the dock rubbing the rub rail across dock bolt heads. Part of the metal rail popped off. We spent Tuesday evening (10 Jun) finding a spot where a rivet was completely gone to place a holding screw to keep the metal rail against the rubrail. Unfortunately, we moved the boat back to this spot to allow another vessel use of the dock 2 days before. A cosmetic issue to fix when we lift the Star out for a bottom job and check the rudder post later this year.
The calm morning of the 11th we headed downriver on the St. John's back to the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) catching the ebb tide and making good time. By the afternoon, we are finally out of Florida and anchored off Cumberland Island, Georgia where we spent last Sunday.
Pulling out his fishing pole, Bobby feeds the fish...they get shrimp, and he hooks a baby shark he throws back. Consumption of dinner occurred earlier, as Jenny was not waiting on the hunter/gatherer to provide the daily sustenance.
From Cumberland Island, our next landfall is Jekyll Island Thursday and Friday. The ultra-rich Victorians (Morgan, Crane, Rockefeller, Pulizter, Goodyear, etc) established a hunting club in 1886 and it continued until 1942. Later, family mansions were built, some without kitchens, as everyone went to the club to eat meals served by well-known chefs of the era. All arrived by yacht to the private dock, except for Morgan, his yacht,the Corsair II, anchored out due to its length of 304 feet (required a crew of 70-80). In 1912, Morgan and others met here secretly to establish the Federal Reserve Banking System to prevent financial panics like the one in 1907 (among other reasons). The exclusive club was open 1 Jan - 31 Mar as a rustic winter country manor retreat. The Depression, income tax and WWII impacted the residents and the ability to get help (servants), so the club finally shut down. The State of Georgia bought the island and has spent years restoring the buildings (2 left), they also require 2/3ds of the island remain in its native state. The original club is now a 4-star hotel and rooms in most of the mansions are run by the hotel. Bike/jogging paths cover the island. The Civil War movie, "Glory", final battle scene attacking the Confederate fort on the beach was filmed here. The producers built a boardwalk to the beach.
We hiked to the historic district for the day and had a lovely lunch at the Crane Cottage. Relaxed by the pool at the marina in the late afternoon, and are now prepping the Star for a 2-day offshore passage from St. Simon's Sound to Morehead City/Beaufort, NC. Trying to get in some sailing and relief from the almost $5/gal diesel fuel prices.
The calm morning of the 11th we headed downriver on the St. John's back to the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) catching the ebb tide and making good time. By the afternoon, we are finally out of Florida and anchored off Cumberland Island, Georgia where we spent last Sunday.
Pulling out his fishing pole, Bobby feeds the fish...they get shrimp, and he hooks a baby shark he throws back. Consumption of dinner occurred earlier, as Jenny was not waiting on the hunter/gatherer to provide the daily sustenance.
From Cumberland Island, our next landfall is Jekyll Island Thursday and Friday. The ultra-rich Victorians (Morgan, Crane, Rockefeller, Pulizter, Goodyear, etc) established a hunting club in 1886 and it continued until 1942. Later, family mansions were built, some without kitchens, as everyone went to the club to eat meals served by well-known chefs of the era. All arrived by yacht to the private dock, except for Morgan, his yacht,the Corsair II, anchored out due to its length of 304 feet (required a crew of 70-80). In 1912, Morgan and others met here secretly to establish the Federal Reserve Banking System to prevent financial panics like the one in 1907 (among other reasons). The exclusive club was open 1 Jan - 31 Mar as a rustic winter country manor retreat. The Depression, income tax and WWII impacted the residents and the ability to get help (servants), so the club finally shut down. The State of Georgia bought the island and has spent years restoring the buildings (2 left), they also require 2/3ds of the island remain in its native state. The original club is now a 4-star hotel and rooms in most of the mansions are run by the hotel. Bike/jogging paths cover the island. The Civil War movie, "Glory", final battle scene attacking the Confederate fort on the beach was filmed here. The producers built a boardwalk to the beach.
We hiked to the historic district for the day and had a lovely lunch at the Crane Cottage. Relaxed by the pool at the marina in the late afternoon, and are now prepping the Star for a 2-day offshore passage from St. Simon's Sound to Morehead City/Beaufort, NC. Trying to get in some sailing and relief from the almost $5/gal diesel fuel prices.
Jenny by and Bobby in a live oak tree on the bike/jogging trail
Proof of temperatures in the mid-90s, Jekyll Island, GA
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Cumberland Island, Georgia
The ruins of the Vanderbilt "Dungeness" mansion and of the wooden Victorian Recreation House on Cumberland Island.After spending Saturday doing chores - Bobby hanging over the engine and generator changing filters and oil, and Jenny provisioning (getting groceries and engine oil), we took a day off and went to Cumberland Island. Yes, we know it is on the ICW route, but our plan is to do Cumberland by land, stop over at Jekyll Island by boat, then head outside for another offshore passage. Trying to get up north to get out of the (early) 90 degree heat of summer in the south.
Cumberland Island is a National Park accessed by ferry from St. Mary's, Georgia (on the Florida
border). The ferry runs twice a day to and from the island allowing time to explore and spend time on the beach (may need reservations, so check park's website). Originally, Timucuan Indians lived here for 3,000 years. In the mid 1500s, Europeans invaded and a Spanish mission was established for 80 years. By 1736, the English under General Oglethorpe established forts at either end of the island, and after a failed attack in 1742, the Spanish ended attempts to invade English Georgia.
By the 1760s land grants became available, but Cumberland Island was not a real estate hot spot before the American Revolution. After the Revolution, General Nathaneal Greene acquired property on the island to raise indigo (blue dye) and harvest oak trees for the new U.S. Navy's ships. After his death, his remarried widow, Catherine, built a 4-story tabby mansion called Dungeness, in addition to creating a working plantation to pay off family debt. The mansion burned down around the mid 1800s. The gardener's cottage (a normal-sized home) is all that remains from this time.
In the mid-1800s, Thomas and Lucy Carnegie (younger brother of Andrew, family in steel) came to the island and built a huge sprawling mansion over the old ruins, and called their castle, Dungeness. Over time, Lucy purchases 90% of the island and builds four mansions for the married children (one is Greyfield, now an expensive hotel where celebrities stay for privacy). Only 200 people supported the Carnegie's life, so a small town with all that entails (power/ice plant, dorms, homes, huge carriage house/stable, recreation mansion with pool/barber and beauty shop/guest rooms/gym, laundry house, smoke house, commissary, 300' yacht with dock, machine and carpentry shops, etc) is constructed. After the 1920s, Dungeness use declined (due to the stock market crash, depression and income taxes) and the latest mansion burned down in 1959. Its ruins remain with some of the support facilities.
Bobby returned to the engine room to replace the ancient main engine water strainer yesterday. Today, we are enduring an afternoon thunderstorms at the dock after prepping for tomorrow's departure. It's back down the St. John's River towards the coast with a left turn onto the ICW for a couple of days.
Cumberland Island is a National Park accessed by ferry from St. Mary's, Georgia (on the Florida
border). The ferry runs twice a day to and from the island allowing time to explore and spend time on the beach (may need reservations, so check park's website). Originally, Timucuan Indians lived here for 3,000 years. In the mid 1500s, Europeans invaded and a Spanish mission was established for 80 years. By 1736, the English under General Oglethorpe established forts at either end of the island, and after a failed attack in 1742, the Spanish ended attempts to invade English Georgia.
By the 1760s land grants became available, but Cumberland Island was not a real estate hot spot before the American Revolution. After the Revolution, General Nathaneal Greene acquired property on the island to raise indigo (blue dye) and harvest oak trees for the new U.S. Navy's ships. After his death, his remarried widow, Catherine, built a 4-story tabby mansion called Dungeness, in addition to creating a working plantation to pay off family debt. The mansion burned down around the mid 1800s. The gardener's cottage (a normal-sized home) is all that remains from this time.
In the mid-1800s, Thomas and Lucy Carnegie (younger brother of Andrew, family in steel) came to the island and built a huge sprawling mansion over the old ruins, and called their castle, Dungeness. Over time, Lucy purchases 90% of the island and builds four mansions for the married children (one is Greyfield, now an expensive hotel where celebrities stay for privacy). Only 200 people supported the Carnegie's life, so a small town with all that entails (power/ice plant, dorms, homes, huge carriage house/stable, recreation mansion with pool/barber and beauty shop/guest rooms/gym, laundry house, smoke house, commissary, 300' yacht with dock, machine and carpentry shops, etc) is constructed. After the 1920s, Dungeness use declined (due to the stock market crash, depression and income taxes) and the latest mansion burned down in 1959. Its ruins remain with some of the support facilities.
Bobby returned to the engine room to replace the ancient main engine water strainer yesterday. Today, we are enduring an afternoon thunderstorms at the dock after prepping for tomorrow's departure. It's back down the St. John's River towards the coast with a left turn onto the ICW for a couple of days.
View of the inland waterway and of the beach on Cumberland Island. No crowds.
Friday, June 6, 2008
Relaxing at NAS Jacksonville
Entering Cape Canaveral Inlet with submarine exiting, warship entering and the launching pad at NASA for the space shuttle. Tuesday, 2 Jun, we head inland to the ICW at Cape Canaveral Inlet due to catching the Gulf Stream offshore and flying for a good part of yesterday and last night. Neither of us sighted another boat all night. Rather impressive seeing the NASA launch pad and shuttle hanger as we entered the inlet. In addition, a Navy submarine was exiting the inlet as we approached and a naval warship went in ahead of us.
We locked through a small lock at the Port of Canaveral with a manatee. Bobby almost used it as a fender as we came in to tie-up. After dropping a whole 6 inches, the gates opened, and there is the manatee heading into the Banana River ahead of us. Not only did Bobby finally see his first real manatee after 7 months of being in manatee territory (no dear they are not a Floridian myth), we locked through with one.
Back onto the ICW (in this area it is the Indian River - big citrus growing area) and up to Titusville to overnight with porpoise and manatee sightings along the way.
Continuing up the ICW northbound on Wednesday, we pass New Smyrna Beach, Daytona Beach, and Flagler Beach on the Matanzas River. Our secluded anchorage for the night is at the north end of Flagler Beach up an old cement plant canal where a Sea Ray Boat Builder plant resides. The next day we pass Palm Coast and St. Augustine (oldest continuously occupied European settlement in the U.S., with a 1670's Spanish fort, Castillo San Marcos), and continue on to the St. John's River. Just off the river, across from Blount Island, we anchor off Little Marsh Island. Across the St. John's River, we see Fort Caroline, a French Huguenot fort from 1564 built to challange the Catholic Spanish to the south at St. Augustine. Shortly after establishing the fort, the French sail to attach St. Augustine, but a storm wrecks the fleet. The 500 survivors try to return overland to Fort Caroline, a fight ensues at Fort Matanzas (south of St. Augustine), and the Spanish kill the 334 who surrender. In Sep, 1565, the Spanish attack the 240 French remaining at Fort Caroline, as usual the French don't do well. Forty escapees flee to France and return with others 4 years later and destroy the now Spanish fort. So, there. And neither ended up with Florida.
We locked through a small lock at the Port of Canaveral with a manatee. Bobby almost used it as a fender as we came in to tie-up. After dropping a whole 6 inches, the gates opened, and there is the manatee heading into the Banana River ahead of us. Not only did Bobby finally see his first real manatee after 7 months of being in manatee territory (no dear they are not a Floridian myth), we locked through with one.
Back onto the ICW (in this area it is the Indian River - big citrus growing area) and up to Titusville to overnight with porpoise and manatee sightings along the way.
Continuing up the ICW northbound on Wednesday, we pass New Smyrna Beach, Daytona Beach, and Flagler Beach on the Matanzas River. Our secluded anchorage for the night is at the north end of Flagler Beach up an old cement plant canal where a Sea Ray Boat Builder plant resides. The next day we pass Palm Coast and St. Augustine (oldest continuously occupied European settlement in the U.S., with a 1670's Spanish fort, Castillo San Marcos), and continue on to the St. John's River. Just off the river, across from Blount Island, we anchor off Little Marsh Island. Across the St. John's River, we see Fort Caroline, a French Huguenot fort from 1564 built to challange the Catholic Spanish to the south at St. Augustine. Shortly after establishing the fort, the French sail to attach St. Augustine, but a storm wrecks the fleet. The 500 survivors try to return overland to Fort Caroline, a fight ensues at Fort Matanzas (south of St. Augustine), and the Spanish kill the 334 who surrender. In Sep, 1565, the Spanish attack the 240 French remaining at Fort Caroline, as usual the French don't do well. Forty escapees flee to France and return with others 4 years later and destroy the now Spanish fort. So, there. And neither ended up with Florida.
Friday is a half day trip upriver to the Mulberry Cove Marina at NAS Jacksonville timed with slack and flood tide to catch the current going with us. Passing through downtown Jacksonville, police boats abound to keep all vessel traffic to the sides of the river due to test runs for Go Fast Boats prepping for a race on Saturday. We plan to spend 5 days here doing routine maintenance, sightseeing and relaxing. NAS Jacksonville is a very nice base, so of course Jenny's dad was never stationed here when she was a kid. With recent unusual temperatures in the 90s, we are appreciating the luxury of air conditioning at the dock.
Fort Matanzas where the French are slaughtered by the Spanish. Next is St. Augustine and the Castillo San Marcos, followed by French Fort Caroline on the St. John's River. Both Spanish forts are built of coquina masonry (tiny shells in the manmade stone, unlike the oyster shell tabby masonry).
Jacksonville is the home of Maxwell House Coffee - good to the last drop
Jenny's dedicated pedicab driver
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Along the Waterway from Cape Canaveral to St. John's River
Haulover Canal from Indian River to Mosquito Lagoon
Real life on the ICW approaching New Smyrna Beach and one of the numerous fishing camps
Palm Coast where all the boat docks match
Along the Matanzas River north of St. Augustine
Only Victorian on the ICW marked on the charts with "CUP" for the cuploa
Palm Valley Cut with homes/docks on the east side
New exclusive community with canals - most new homes along the waterway are huge and some aren't...
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Miami Madness
Bobby dreaming of trading the Wanderin' Star for the old African Queen.Jenny and Bobby at the No Name Pub on Big Pine Key (note the $1 bills all over), and the only alligators in The Keys are at the Blue Hole on Big Pine Key
Our Marathon/Vaca Key departure was Friday (30 May). Concerned about weather predictions of thunderstorms until then, we rented a car for two days. First time for Bobby driving The Keys up to Islamorada, Windley Key for the Fossil State Park (old coral rock quarry), and Key Largo, then went down to Big Pine Key to the Key Deer Refuge and the Exchange at NAS Key West (Sisgbee Island). Lovely scenery and water color variations along the way.
Friday got us to Plantation Key and Cowpens Anchorage. Please watch the west end of this anchorage as there are 3 shoaled sections extending into the area quite a bit. Not on any chart. Recommend heading up the ICW and coming in on the markers to the marina. Yes, we grounded on the outside one, had to be towed off, and only got a warning from the Park Rangers (even through no one has updated any charts or marked the area) after they inspected the boat and ensured Bobby had no outstanding warrants. TowBoat US knows this area well, as they frequent it a lot - we were by no means the first to go aground here. The rangers are concerned more with power boaters as they will try to power off, so the props wash out an area of sand and seagrass, causing more damage (this ensures a hefty fine).
To replenish seagrass areas, pea gravel is laid on the bottom, plugs of grass planted, and numerous white stakes are place throughout the area for birds to roost on. The bird poop provides nourishment for the seagrass, and voila.
Yesterday (Sat, 31 May), we anchored off the NW end of Elliot Key. This is where Charlotte ("Charlotte's Story") and her husband lived (1933-35) until the Labor Day Hurricane of '35. They combed the beach for their needs, fished and caught conch, and maintained a lime orchard for the owner of the property where they stayed for free. Incredibly, they survived the hurricane - most did not. The Miami skyline glowed in the distance and hoards of daytripping power boats clustered at every anchorage and shoal (most depart in the evening).
After refueling at Crane Park Marina (1 hour away at the north end of Key Biscayne), we arrived early this afternoon to No Name Marina (at the south end) after surviving the gaunlet of fast boats going everywhere and throwing up huge wakes off Key Biscayne. For the remainder of the day, boats of all lengths and size arrive in the harbor, people swim off the stern, and depart. The anchoring process, music and thong bikinis provided the entertainment. By evening, I drag Bobby out for a walk along the water overlooking Stiltsville (homes built over the water, only 7 left, now owned by the park) in the channel. The original Stiltsville started due to people not wanting to pay property taxes (I not be remembering this correctly), storms and poor upkeep took out most of the homes (not allowed to rebuild) Get back to land and pay taxes like everyone else - big brother decrees.
The Star heads out the Cape Florida Channel to the Atlantic for an overnight offshore passage
to Fort Pierce, or beyond, tomorrow. There is a 54' fixed bridge our main mast will not fit under in Miami and far too many bridges at frequent intervals requiring a lift for us to pass in Southern Florida along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).
Friday got us to Plantation Key and Cowpens Anchorage. Please watch the west end of this anchorage as there are 3 shoaled sections extending into the area quite a bit. Not on any chart. Recommend heading up the ICW and coming in on the markers to the marina. Yes, we grounded on the outside one, had to be towed off, and only got a warning from the Park Rangers (even through no one has updated any charts or marked the area) after they inspected the boat and ensured Bobby had no outstanding warrants. TowBoat US knows this area well, as they frequent it a lot - we were by no means the first to go aground here. The rangers are concerned more with power boaters as they will try to power off, so the props wash out an area of sand and seagrass, causing more damage (this ensures a hefty fine).
To replenish seagrass areas, pea gravel is laid on the bottom, plugs of grass planted, and numerous white stakes are place throughout the area for birds to roost on. The bird poop provides nourishment for the seagrass, and voila.
Yesterday (Sat, 31 May), we anchored off the NW end of Elliot Key. This is where Charlotte ("Charlotte's Story") and her husband lived (1933-35) until the Labor Day Hurricane of '35. They combed the beach for their needs, fished and caught conch, and maintained a lime orchard for the owner of the property where they stayed for free. Incredibly, they survived the hurricane - most did not. The Miami skyline glowed in the distance and hoards of daytripping power boats clustered at every anchorage and shoal (most depart in the evening).
After refueling at Crane Park Marina (1 hour away at the north end of Key Biscayne), we arrived early this afternoon to No Name Marina (at the south end) after surviving the gaunlet of fast boats going everywhere and throwing up huge wakes off Key Biscayne. For the remainder of the day, boats of all lengths and size arrive in the harbor, people swim off the stern, and depart. The anchoring process, music and thong bikinis provided the entertainment. By evening, I drag Bobby out for a walk along the water overlooking Stiltsville (homes built over the water, only 7 left, now owned by the park) in the channel. The original Stiltsville started due to people not wanting to pay property taxes (I not be remembering this correctly), storms and poor upkeep took out most of the homes (not allowed to rebuild) Get back to land and pay taxes like everyone else - big brother decrees.
The Star heads out the Cape Florida Channel to the Atlantic for an overnight offshore passage
to Fort Pierce, or beyond, tomorrow. There is a 54' fixed bridge our main mast will not fit under in Miami and far too many bridges at frequent intervals requiring a lift for us to pass in Southern Florida along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).
Birds providing nutrients for a new seagrass bed.
Miami north of Key Biscayne, and a view in No Name Harbor.
Stiltsville as we head out of Cape Florida Channel.
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