Yorktown, Virginia

Coast Guard Training vessels tied up at Yorktown docks for lunch, Colonial home, and Nelson's home with cannonballs lodged in it (see between upper two windows and to lower right of right first floor window).

The Star is back on the York River at the new dock at Yorktown (Riverwalk Landing, 757-890-3370). Yorktown has a new waterfront since Hurricane Isabel hit in 2003 - new dock, breakwater and beaches, walkway, Waterman Museum, and Colonial-style buildings for shops and restarants with parking. Is is an easy walk around the historic town, the Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center or the Victory Center. In the summer, a free trolley has stops around the sights, plus a shuttle runs from the Victory Center to the Colonial Capitol of Williamsburg and on to the first English settlement of Jamestown (able to see all three historic sights within 23 miles without a car).

Yorktown was the last official battle of the American Revolution (Oct 1781). General Washington caught Lord Cornwallis here in a seige. The English troops were unable to escape across the river to Glouscester Point, and the French Navy kept the British Royal Navy from entering the Chesapeake Bay to bring more troops and supplies. It took two years (1783) for the treaty to be signed by Britian recognizing the United States of America. The risk our forefathers took (rich and poor) to initiate a fight against Britain, against all odds, for six years, labeled as traitors/terrorists /rebels, was immense. Even afterwards, many struggled (due to lost property, lost wages due to soldiering for years, loss of wage earner, etc.) despite the struggle the new country incurred establishing itself with little to no money.

Every year the U.S. Army Transporation Center at Fort Eustus has a Transportation Week the last week of July, so we went to the barbeque Thursday night where we also saw Mike Keith and Linda Wahlman.

Yorktown battlefield from British defensive works to redoubts 9 and 10 that the French and Americans captured, ultimately causing the end of the Revolutionary War.

Rappahannock River, Virginia

Ospery nest on a channel marker.

We are calling this summer "the summer without bugs" (especially mosquitoes). Due to the lack of pests, it is obvious a drought is occurring in The South. Another observation is the amount of ospreys we are seeing. Lone pilings with a shelf on top are placed along the waterways we have traveled for the birds to establish nests, in addition to the markers already used. We do not remember seeing these birds so often 20 years ago. I noticed the same feeling with the bald eagles in the Pacific Northwest - rarely sighted in the 70-80s, but often seen in the late 90s. Something is happening right for these creatures.

On our way to the Rappahannock River (north along the mainland Virginia coastline) Thursday, 24 July. First stop is Carter's Creek/Irvington. Nice quiet anchorage on the East Branch. Up the other branch are marinas and a resort. The next night we anchor on the West Branch of the Corrotoman River upriver where one of Virginia's last free 2-car cable ferries operates. Then it is to the south side of the Rappahannock River to Urbanna. We anchor across from the Town Dock and walk to town from the free dinghy dock. Small town with lots of marinas, shopping, restaurants, and a grocery store. Our entertainment all day Sunday is watching two guys getting a small sunken wooden fishing boat out of a slip at the Town Dock. It is done in pieces with a block and chain, chainsaw, and pulling large chucks up to the dock by a small pickup truck. By dark, the engine/stern section finally land on the dock to be pulled into the parking lot. It is still sitting there when we up anchor Monday morning.

Back out into the Chesapeake Bay, we head a bit south to the Pliankatank River and Jackson Creek (south side of Deltaville) to anchor off Deltaville Marina and Boatyard. There is a dinghy dock by the boatyard, and marina facilities can be used for $10/day (offers van ride to grocery store). The walk to shopping, NAPA Auto Parts, Post Office and a hardware store is a 1/2 mile and 1 mile.

After being anchored for 2 hours, one of our neighbors in the anchorage attaches his dinghy to the stern of his boat and pulls his boat around in a circle. There is plenty of space between our boats, so we are shocked when he dinghies over and screams (including obscenities) at us. Bobby refuses to move - guess we where in "his space". Back at his boat, he goes below and we do not see him again. We later learn from another neighbor that Mr. Crabby appears to be a miserable person. Seems he was knocked out by the boom hitting him in the head during a jybe (not the cause of his unhappiness) a few days ago and injured his hand. Nice neighbor offers to take him to a doctor...that is refused as doctors just find more stuff wrong with you and want money (hmm), and do not get shots as they are just a government control program...and so forth. Maybe this is why doctors find more wrong with you!

Another sunset at anchor, walking in Urbanna, and Jackson Creek/Deltaville, Virginia.

Doing the Dismal Swamp Canal

Entering the Dismal Swamp Canal lock at the NC end, how far we have traveled from the Keys, and at the Welcome Center dock with S/V White Pepper.

Underway Saturday (19 July) up the Dismal Swamp Canal - an absolutely lovely trip with the dark tannic acid water reflecting everything on the water like a mirror. Each end of the canal(North Carolina and Virginia) has a lock and bridge operated by the lockmaster with the bridge lift coordinated with lock opening times. Both ends have places to tie-up or anchor to wait for lock/bridge openings.

Just a few miles south of the NC/VA border, is a North Carolina Welcome Center (off Route 17) with a free dock to overnight (water available under north end of dock). The Welcome Center has a boater's lounge, internet and 24-hour restrooms. The state park service operates the Dismal Swamp Visitor Center on the other side of the canal, accessed by a bridge (monitored and opens for boats in the canal), with nature lectures on weekends. There is also a paved bike/walking trail at the end of the parking lot for the Visitor Center. We traveled the canal with Karl and Jan Stein of S/V White Pepper (met at Elizabeth City docks).

After staying overnight in the canal, both vessels head to Virginia. At the quay wall before the Deep Creek bridge, we tied up and enjoyed lunch at the Mexican Restaurant right there awaiting a bridge opening. Propane is available at hardware store nearby. S/V White Pepper headed into the Deep Creek Lock, but the Star tied-up at the free town dock before the lock (part of a park) to overnight.

By Monday (21 July), we are locked out of the Canal, heading through Portsmouth, Norfolk, and out into the Chesapeake Bay. Our immediate destination is the York River (Sarah Creek, on the Glouscester Point side) to visit with Army friends (Dan Murray, Darlene May, Mike and Mary Wichterman). Thanks to each for grocery shopping, mail, engine oil and filter.

At the Deep Creek Bridge quay wall, tied-up at the town dock before the Deep Creek Lock, and the Navy at Portsmouth/Norfolk, Virginia.

On the way to the Dismal Swamp Canal Route

Sunrise and sunset along the way to Elizabeth City.
WWII Blimp Hanger - largest wooden building in the world - and blimb outside Elizabeth City.

Doing the Intracoastal Waterway along North Carolina is a lovely trip with variations of canals, rivers and sounds to transit. Realizing Bobby announced we are underway again, the winds cease from the south and turn north, so we are nose into the wind for three days to Elizabeth City. Yes, motoring 8 hours/day for 3 days out in the sparsely populated country, so still no cellular service.

Wednesday night (16 July) our anchorage for the night was off the north end of the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal. Upon dropping the hook, wasps fly over deciding to nest in the sailcovers. Dinner preparation is underway while Bobby is dancing about the deck with a fly swatter waging war for more than an hour with insects. Carcasses loll about the deck while Jenny serves dinner, putting a temporary truce to the carnage. The final holdouts are vanquished the next morning.

In the Abermarle Sound, the ICW breaks into two routes. The west route heads to the Dismal Swamp Canal, and the east route stays inland from the coast. Both routes meet up south of the Portsmouth/Norfolk area of Virginia. We are heading up to the Dismal Swamp Canal (bordering North Carolina and Virginia).

We arrive at the Elizabeth City Mariner Wharf docks Thursday afternoon. This cruiser friendly town provides free 48-hour docks right downtown. They are very small, meaning you can only depart/board your boat by the bow (front of the boat, usually the pointy end). The Farm Fresh grocery store provides a free shuttle to and from the Wharf to their store. Most requirements are within a few blocks, to include a wonderful county museum. The Mariner Wharf is at a park with a Saturday market, free summer concerts and local welcomers. Jenny took a delightful historical walking tour, with another boat couple, that included local politics and government issues. The tour concluded with a high tea, all for only $15/person by De' Tours (Bonnie at 252-
435-5427).

Elizabeth City Mariner Wharf docks and Bonnie of De' Tours in front of the oldest brick house in town.

Stuck in the Shipyard

Lifted out and living on the hard.

The Star was lifted out of the water 24 June at Core Creek Marine (252-728-7358) in the Jarrett Bay Industrial Park 5 miles north on the ICW from Beaufort. We were able to live on the boat in the yard as restrooms/showers were available. Wonderful yard, very quiet, security roaming throughout the night, hourly fees are cheaper than other places, and you can also work on your own boat. Summer is the downtime for repairs in this area, so it is a good time to get work done. The boat passed the Survey (periodic inspection required for insurance) with only one repair needed - remove one deck handrail and reset it due to slight moisture intrusion. After a week, the Star is back in the water at Jarrett Bay docks (where the lifts occur) and men are checking out the throttle while the engine is running and it is not going into forward - not that Jenny is not repeatedly mentioning the issue is probably the transmission, as it is like when your clutch goes out in a car (but, what would a woman know about mechanical stuff). Talk goes back and forth for 2-3 days about throttle vs. transmission until the final call is made - transmission (ah, vindicated again)

Now, it is another two weeks tied up at the Jarrett Bay Marine dock (252-728-2690) while parts are researched (do not make parts for our diesel engine or throttle anymore), ordered and installed. They also have restroom/shower facilities, security and it is also quiet living here considering all the activity during the day. We took care of other boat chores and read a lot of books over these last 3 weeks. Enterprise Car Rental in Morehead City even drove all the way out here to pick us up to rent a car and brought us back after the rental period completed. They are very friendly and dedicated.

On top of being out in the country in a huge boatyard complex with every boat manufacturing/ repair facility around us, we were at the edge of a cellular dead zone. Thus, being online and making phone calls required just the proper angle of projection from one spot on the boat at high tide.

Tomorrow morning (Tuesday) is a quick sea trail to ensure the transmission is operating correctly, then we are on are way once again.

Back in the water.