Happy Thanksgiving Y'All

Tom Campbell, Alan Symes and Chris Blair

Bobby with the ladies - Susann Symes, Robin Blair and Sandy Campbell

The Sandpiper Marina is a mile from the condo complex where the Chris and Robin Blair (S/V Toucan Dream), Tom and Sandy Campbell (S/V Magic Reunion), and Don and Barb Tonelli (M/V ?) now live. All were Watergate Yachting Center liveaboards at Clear Lake, Texas, that individually migrated across the Gulf of Mexico to Florida. Their condo complex includes dock space, making it appealing for boat owners (saves the cost of keeping a boat at a marina). Now Alan and Susann Symes (M/V Kaos) are here making an offer on a condo.

This means Thanksgiving is a reunion of replanted Texans. We gather at Tom and Sandy's condo on the ground floor by the river. As Bobby steps out of the screened-in patio to smoke after dinner, the conversation turns to alligators being in the waters/ponds around the area - the one seen regularly on the river banks of the condo complex is called, "Boscoe". Just as Sandy flips on the patio light to "light Bobby up so the gator can see him", Bobby quickly turns to the screen door, stubs out his cigarette and rushes back inside! His next smoke break is out the front door!!!

We will be here for a few weeks enjoying the warm weather, and replacing the UV damaged plastic portlights on the "Star" with stainless steel.

Happy Thanksgiving y'all! Enjoy the approaching holiday season with your loved ones. Wish we could be with you...

Fort George River to Port St. Lucie, FL

Kingsley Plantation, Fort George Island, Florida
Tabby wall slave quarters curving on either side of land entrance to Kingsley Plantation

Wanderin' Star anchored off plantation
Evening looking west towards Jacksonville, FL with nuclear power plant towers in the distance
Fox Cut south of St. Augustine with amazing boat docks: covered for boat and 4 jet skis, the double decker with deck over boat; the triple, double and single - fishing reins!

Another day benefiting from currents in our favor. We anchor Wednesday afternoon in the Fort George River, across from the Kingsley Plantation. It is a state park with a dock available to tie-up from 0900-1630, and a ranger tour daily at 1400 hours. Jenny rows the dinghy over to the dock to walk the grounds. The plantation house is modest, but the interesting part is the tabby walled slave quarters still standing in an arc on either side of the road entrance. Kingsley was the final owner, known for buying slaves (once the slave trade was banned, meaning no new slaves entering the country), and training them so well that a Kingsley slave added $200-300 to the selling price. He married a freed slave. They lived in separate homes (as it was illegal for mixed race couples to live together), and their children were legally recognized by Mr. Kingsley. Mrs. Kingsley owned her own land (from Spanish grants) and worked it with her own slaves. At one point, Mrs. Kingsley and the children (including freed slaves) fled to Haiti when it appeared they might be returned to slavery (around the Civil War). Upon Mr. Kingsley's death, Mrs. Kingsley returned to the United States and fought for his/her legal property. She won.

By Friday (21 Nov), we are past St. Augustine and heading south of Daytona Beach while listening to Christmas music on the radio. I know, how did this happen when "The Grinch"
(Bobby) is on board?! At the Sheephead Cut anchorage in New Symrna Beach, the 25 knot winds and swift currents oppose each other and snap us about the anchor. Bobby is on anchor watch until 0200, but there is not much sleep occurring below. A long sleepless night for us both.
The next day we are in Titusville by noon. Within a few hours at the city marina, we refuel, fill water tanks, pumpout, and restock groceries. Not surprisingly, it is an early night. Sunday, we anchor behind a small island in the Indian River south of Melbourne. Does it sound as we are desperate to keep heading south? We are. Cold fronts continue to hit the coast. Encased in fleece each morning, we are peeling off clothing layers earlier every day.

Monday (24 Nov), we make enough speed heading down the Indian River to put in 75 miles (usual day is 50 miles). That gets us up the St. Lucie River (one end of the Okeechobee Waterway - crossing between east/west Florida without having to travel around the Keys) to Port St. Lucie and the Sandpiper Marina on the North Fork shortly before the dockmaster closes up for the day. Chris Blair and Tom Campbell dinghy out to lead us in and assist us in tying up (friends from the marina we lived at in Texas, and the marina we spent last winter at on Florida's west coast). Even more amazing is Bobby lassoing a stern line around a piling some distance from the boat on the first try, in the presence of witnesses! The boy must be from Texas!

Indian River (ICW) and its islands north of Vero Beach, Florida

Beaufort, SC to Jekyll Island, GA

Beaufort, SC waterfront

Church cemetery - English born soldier, survivor of the Charge of the Light Brigade and served in the Confederate Army

Typical house in Beaufort with arched basement

Robert Smalls - born into slavery, commandeered Confederate gunboat to present to Union in 1862, served in SC's Congress and as an US Congressman for 8 years

From Beaufort, South Carolina, the ICW passes Parris Island, Hilton Head Island, and Daufuskie Island. Daufuskie Island??? Daufuskie (from da fus key or the first key or the first island) is still cut off from the mainland (no bridges). In the 1960's, the descendants of slaves living on the island had little contact with the outside world and lacked the conveniences beginning to impact our lives. Local area author, Pat Conroy, taught school on the island for a year, introducing the students to new ideas/things. The movie, "Conrack" and the book, "The River is Wide" describe his experience. Today, resort homes are beginning to line the shores under Hilton Head-like development.

We anchor out for the night, 3 miles from the Savannah River (border of South Carolina and Georgia). Immediately from our anchorage the following morning, we are held up outside Field's Cut due to a dredge tow with pipes maneuvering into the cut. Wisely, we wait until the whole combination is through the turn, lined up, and waiting for large ship traffic to pass on the Savannah River, before we call the tug captain to request passage.

Upon entering the Savannah River to cross the ship channel (meaning a charted channel for large commercial ship traffic to enter and exit a harbor, or head out an inlet to sea), we see a ship one mile upriver heading towards us. We turn upriver, staying just outside the channel to starboard, until the ship passes and then cut across the river to the next leg of the waterway. Later, we hear on Channel 16 (VHF channel everyone monitors) of a catamaran (boat with two hulls) trying to play chicken by cutting across the channel in front of a large ship. Needless to say, the ship captain was curious to know if the catamaran captain throught he could out run a vessel bearing down on him doing 20 knots.

Along the way, we pass St. Catherine's Island. This island is owned by a foundation running a survival center as its climate is suitable for breeding rare and endangered species, such as gazelles, parrots, and Madagascar turtles. Next, we pass Sapelo Island. Once owned by tobacco magnate, R.J. Reynolds, it now houses the University of Georgia's Marine Institute (one of the East Coast's outstanding research centers). Next is private Little St. Simons Island. A resort accessible only by boat and limited to 24 overnight guests for nature watching. On to St. Simons Island with its resort colony and historic area.

By 18 Nov (Tuesday), we arrive at the Jekyll Island Harbor Marina after two chilly days/nights at anchor. With NW winds up to 15-25 knots, passage across the small sounds was no dig deal. Not enough fetch (open water) to build up waves higher than 2-3', and usually the wind
generated waves were coming at our stern. Today's underway speed was between 6-8 knots, so we arrived early at 1400; putting in 55 miles. With a record cold (in the 30s) for the next two nights, at least we have power tonight to run the heater. Yes, we can crank up the generator tomorrow night to operate the heater, if needed. We stayed here in June (with temperatures in the 90s) and walked to the historic Millionaire's Village. The island was purchased by millionaires in the 1800s for a winter hunting club (now a 4-star hotel). Families eventually built "cottages" (mansions) around the club. Now the state of Georgia owns the island, with 2/3ds undeveloped and only a few low-lying hotels on the beach.

During dinner at the marina's SeaJay's restaurant, we visited with another cruising couple that went through a bridge with us yesterday. Turns out they had the same experience Monday we did with the same single-handed slow boat cutting in front of everyone awaiting on bridge openings, then staying mid-channel making it difficult for anyone to pass; even veering close to other boats while he was below. It's not just us! In addition, they related how a boat's mast broke into 3 pieces when a bridge tender closed a pivoting bridge too soon. Another dining couple told us how they barely escaped a bridge closing on them just as they were beginning to pass through. Turns out these vessels ended up in a group where only one vessel contacted the bridge tender saying he and so many vessels behind him were awaiting the next opening - they did not contact the bridge tender individually (lesson learned). Most of the bridge tenders
request each vessel's name and homeport, and we always thank the bridge tender as we clear giving our vessel name.

Flock of migrating geese on the ICW in South Carolina

Jekyll Island, GA - Millionaire's Hunting Club Hotel from dock on ICW

Waccamaw River, NC to Beaufort, SC

Waccamaw River

Departing anchorage south of McClellanville, NC

Heading to Charleston in the fog

Fort Sumter - first shots of the Civil War

Charleston, SC

Elliot Cut (current does not look extreme)

Buoy by Elliot Cut showing current

Reluctantly, we depart the Osprey Marina and enter the scenic Waccamaw River (some of the loveliest miles on the ICW). Somehow we are able to spend the day by ourselves. Much needed privacy after the hectic day yesterday. Tidal currents are with us for most of the day, so we make good time and pile on some additional miles before anchoring just past McClellanville, NC.

On Thursday (13 Nov), we head into Charleston harbor after a morning of fog; passing Fort Sumter as we cross the Cooper River. As we enter the Ashley River, we pass "The Battery", the historic area of Charleston. Making a turn to port, it is into the Wappoo Creek with the current increasing against us (ebb current). Past Wappoo Creek-James Island Bridge is the narrow and short Elliot Cut (1/4 mile). With the engine at 1800 rpms (our usual for running at 6 knots), the "Star is barely inching forward at 1.3 knots. Bobby is working hard at the wheel keeping the bow in the middle of the cut as the current swirls past at its peak, and two vessels behind us ready to enter. At this rate, it will take a long time to clear the cut - "Bobby, why don't we try increasing our speed (rpms) to get through here faster and easier", asks Jenny? "Oh", he replies. Sure enough, at 2000 rpms, hull speed is up to 2.3 knots, and we clear the cut 9 minutes later. There are places to anchor on either side of Elliot's Cut to await slack tide (time between tidal changes when currents cease or reduce significantly in strength). We would recommend waiting for the slack, especially if your vessel engine is small.

We spend two nights anchored out before we arrive at Beaufort, South Carolina. The current is strong on the Beaufort River, so we turn the boat into the current to dock. As we are heading to Beaufort, the inverter we plug the navigation laptop into for AC power dies (under engine power we only have DC current, hence 2 sets of lights around the boat for AC or DC power). Another reason to keep paper charts out in addition to the electronic screen display. No worries, we are staying here for two days, the marina has a courtesy vehicle, so we will be able to purchase a new inverter.

Bobby was at a Charleston shipyard with an Army landing craft (174') from Panama in the fall of 1994. Jenny hopped an Air Force flight to visit for two weeks, with her Mom and Aunt Heidi
flying in from Seattle. Part of the tourist agenda was a visit to Beaufort for a historic tour carriage ride. Back then, Beaufort was a sleepy Southern country town near Parris Island (Marine Corps recruit training base) with chain stores/restaurants out on the highway. The chains remain out of town, but downtown historic Beaufort is wide awake now! A lovely waterfront park/promenade is a wonderful addition to the revitalized town (lots of shops and restaurants). Traffic is constant heading over the bridge to life on the islands. As everywhere else, growth has also occurred here. We once considered retiring in Beaufort, but no longer. Jenny enjoyed a few days of sunrise running through the residential historic area (including where "The Great Santini" and "The Big Chill" were filmed). We partook of fabulous meals of breakfast and seafood at Blackstone's and Kathleen's, respectively. After changing the engine oil and resealing the plastic windows of our cockpit enclosure from UV rays, it is time to wait for the slack between tides (noon) and four boats on the inside of the T-dock to depart before we can swing the stern around to head on our way.

View of ICW from Beaufort, SC

Just one of the large oaks in Beaufort

Home where "The Great Santini" and "The Big Chill" were filmed

Swansboro, NC to Myrtle Beach, SC

Anchorage north of Mrytle Beach

North Carolina is a fishing mecca as small fishing boats are out all over the waterways this long weekend. Most homes along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) have docks and boat lifts. Now I know where the powerboat companies make their profits.

Our trip continues Sunday (9 Nov) through Camp Lejeune's artillery firing range, complete with armored mobile launcher targets right on the east bank of the ICW. I would not want to pass through here with a marine needing lots of practice lobbing artillery rounds at targets!

The bridges along the route down to Wrightsville Beach (near Wilmington) open on the hour, or hour and half hour. There is no conversation with the bridge tender, your boat better be on time or it will not open or will close after the boats slightly ahead of you are through. We are being patient with other boaters, even though some slower boats move ahead of the pack awaiting a bridge opening, instead of staying in line as they arrive, then proceed through the bridge opening slowly, holding everyone else up and making everyone spend additional time getting around them (some even remain mid-channel so you can not get around). The result is a continual passing of the same boats at every bridge with a long wait for an opening.

While crossing and heading downriver on the Cape Fear River on the flood (meaning the tidal current if going the same direction you are), the "Star" got up to 9.6 knots. The fastest speed she has been at since we have owned her. Our usual speed is about 6 knots (7 mph), with a range of 35-60 miles/day depending on if we are anchoring out or staying at a marina. We try to do a early (35 miles) day when staying overnight at a marina, so we have time to refuel, scrub the deck, do laundry, shop for groceries, and any other chores required. Otherwise we continue until the late afternoon to an anchorage (definitely before sundown).

We anchored past Wrightsville Beach Sunday night with that city lights to the north and Carolina Beach's lights to the south with a three quarters moon. Monday, was a day strangely without being caught up in a boat gaggle. We had the waterway to ourselves and relished in the peace. Dolphins sightings are becoming more frequent.

The ICW in the Myrtle Beach area requires a day of patience. A few bridges to pass through, with quite a few boats all together. Some slower vessels keep moving up to the bridge as everyone else stays in line as they arrive waiting for the opening. Then the slow boats fearfully creep through the bridge opening, so everyone behind them can barely move forward, increasing the length of time the bridge stops vehicular traffic. Now the line of boats spends time (if there is room) passing the slow boats, if slow boat bothers to look behind them and stay out of the middle of the channel. You can try contacting them on the VHF radio, but usually will get no answer as the slow boat is being single-handed and their VHF is not in the cockpit (where the captain is steering). In addition, many new fixed bridges (65' height) have gone up in this area that are not on the chart or in cruising guides. So lead boat of the pack freaks out and slows down to creep up to the new bridge (all new bridges are built at 65') not sure if their mast will pass under. Time to practice yoga meditation - ohmmmm.

In this section is an overhead cable tramway. The tram cars carry golfers from the clubhouse over the ICW to the golf course and back!

Our reward after all this on Tuesday (11 Nov), is a stay at the friendly and lovely Osprey Marina for the night. Time to do laundry, scrub down the "Star's" deck, and enjoy the full moon with our bag of goodies the marina provides to all transient boaters. Ah, life is good after all.

Osprey Marina off the ICW

Alligator River to Swansboro, NC

I'm thinking flamingo for the "Star's" bow...Bobby will never notice.
It is rare to see a North Carolinian fishing without being in a boat (I think we saw this same couple here on our way north).
A sunset at Pungo Creek anchorage by Belhaven, NC.

By Thursday morning, 6 Nov, the storm front passed with the wind dropping off enough for us to make a run towards Belhaven. A good portion of the day will be in the Alligator/Pungo River Canal protected from the wind. Some boats are remaining in place another day, so we are only being passed on occasion by powerboats today.

Just past Belhaven, is Pungo Creek, where we enjoy a solitary anchorage, a beautiful sunset, a brilliant half moon, and sparkling stars at nightfall. The 5-day wind finally dies as we set the hook. The following morning is sunny with no wind. Bobby finally gets to use the deck washdown he installed to hose off the muddy chain and anchor as we pull it up. As we head out, so are the boats that spent days holed up in Belhaven. The boat parade is on in full force now, stretched out for miles. As birds fly overhead, I wonder what they make of this migration on the surface of the water. Throughout the day, packs of powerboats pass the many slower sailboats, it is like traveling across country on the freeway.

Now, we glance to our stern at intervals to know if another vessel is gaining on us, and to see how our course is tracking through cross winds/currents. Out of consideration, we slow our speed when a vessel is approaching our stern, in order to assist them in passing quickly. The other (burdened) vessel, especially a high speed powerboat, should call on the VHF radio (as they can read the name on your stern) and slow down to avoid leaving the passed (privileged) vessel in a large wake. Even oncoming vessels should slow to pass each other without creating large confusing wakes. This occurs by the powerboat about half of the time. Even on the ICW, we travel underway as if offshore. Items are stowed and shelf nets are up, so we are prepared for wakes rolling us side-to-side or slamming our bow up and down causing spray to cascade onto the deck. After hours motoring along, Bobby can use a wake-up thrill every now and then. Once we contact the first inconsiderate passing vessel of the day on Channel 16 (which everyone monitors, including the Coast Guard), the others in the area begin calling as they approach slower vessels' sterns. Sailboats do not have a planing hull like a powerboat. Our hulls are displacement hulls with a keel. In addition, sailboat engines do not generate the speed to create a wake that may cause damage to passing vessels, anchored/docked vessels, or erode shorelines. Sailboats do need to be aware of the small amount of wake they create in narrow channels as it can have the effect of a fast powerboat in more open water.

The "Star" makes good time on the long Neuse River crossing, so it is too early to stop at Oriental on the north side or at Adam Creek anchorage on the south. We continue through the Adam Creek Canal encountering an ebb tide (current is against us, slowing us down from over 6 knots to under 5 knots). Out the other end into Core Creek, we decide to spend the night at Jarrett Bay Boatyard in Beaufort, as it is late afternoon and the sun is setting after 5pm. Scary thought, as this last summer we spent almost a month here for repairs. Lucky us, we tie-up in the lift basin at the exact spot on the wall. The large ball fenders put on the wall for us in July are still there! Jenny gets in a run before sunset, using the cockpit shower to rinse sand off her running shoes afterwards. She continues to find multiple uses for equipment (to further justify forcing Bobby to purchase and install them - or so he says)

Faithful Bobby listens to the NOAA weather report every morning and night. We are suppose to have winds 10-15 knots Saturday, 8 Nov. Good thing we leave early today - already the wind is piping up, and it continues throughout the day until it is gusting 25-30 knots late in the afternoon. By then, the boat's port side is smashed up against the dock squeezing the life out of the fenders (we had to flip around from the fuel dock on the ICW to the T-dock next to it, so we can get off the dock tomorrow morning if the SW winds pick up again). After 2 long days underway, we make a half-day run past Morehead City, through the shallow Bogue Sound to Swansboro. Dudley's Marina is a short walk to downtown historic Swansboro which we wander through and offers a courtesy car for grocery shopping which we use to reprovision. Hurricane Paloma is hitting Cuba as a category 4. It sounds as if it is breaking up after crossing Cuba. Bobby dodges another one.

Sunrise at Dudley's Marina and the town of Swansboro, NC.

Proof of global warming - giraffes are migrating to North Carolina for the winter.

Down the Dismal Swamp Canal

Meeting up with the Boat Parade awaiting a bridge opening in Portsmouth/Norfolk, VA.

First in the Deep Creek Locks to enter the Dismal Swamp Canal.

Rafted up at the Dismal Swamp Canal dock at the Visitor's Center.

Bobby backed the "Star" out of the slip Friday, 31 Oct, and we were underway to the Dismal Swamp Canal after waiting for the weather to depart. Our July canal transit was with one other boat. Not this time...it is like being in a small boat parade through the Portsmouth/ Norfolk bridges. Fall is the season to head south on the Intracoastal Waterway. In addition, recent bad weather kept boats holed up in place for three days. Vessels raft up across the canal at the Visitor's Center dock, on Saturday, four deep (12 total) as if attending a family reunion on the waterway. All of us synchronize watches for the end of daylight savings time in order to make the next day's first lock opening on time. Sunday, the parade of vessels meanders through the South Mill locks and into Elizabeth City. Even through it is November, we do see turtles on stumps at the edge of the waterway taking in the sunshine.

In the country/small town regions, you will be without cell phone/internet service most of the time. On Sundays, just about everything is closed, so think about anchoring out.

Due to the weather deteriorating to high winds/rain 3-6 Nov, we motor across a calm Albemarle Sound early Monday morning to hide out from the storm at Alligator River Marina, as it is not as exposed as Elizabeth City. By the time we are entering the marina, there are five of us in a conga line coming in one after the other keeping the dockmaster hopping. Early Tuesday morning, the wind gusts to 40 knots begin (early morning being the time something bad usually happens in the dark). Sometimes it is better not to be out in the backcountry wondering if the anchor will hold.

The Boat Pack heading out of the Dismal Swamp Canal - clogged up waiting for the South Mills bridge to open, and in the South Mills Locks (notice we stayed out of the way in the rear).