S/V Wanderin' Star's Journeys and Adventures

Cruising Between San Juan and Stuart Islands

2011-08-17T14:56:00.000-07:00

"The Star" and S/V Kocoa depart Lopez Island 26 July, cross the San Juan Channel to Friday Harbor, San Juan Island. Summer appears to have finally arrived - it is still a little bit cooler than normal, but at least the sun is making a daily appearance. The few days at Friday Harbor allow Jenny's Mom to fill prescriptions, and for all of us to do laundry and stock up on fresh food. Making a run to the used bookstore is another "must do" activity at this port.

A few days later, anchored in Prevost Harbor, Stuart Island, the tiniest birthday cake is pulled out of S/V Kocoa's refer for Jenny's birthday. We are barely able to fit candles on it, much less produce 4 slices of cake for the celebration! At sunset, a bagpiper appears on the deck of the nearby anchored S/V Spike Africa to serenade the harbor as the full moon rises above the tree line. A perfect end to the day.

At the state marine park dock - Reid Harbor, Stuart Island

Throughout the remainder of our stay in the San Juans during August, we cruise between Garrison Bay/Roche Harbor on San Juan Island, and Prevost/Reid Harbor on Stuart Island. The enjoyment of watching eagles and Canadian geese in flight, deer at the edge of the woods, and the curious harbor seals with their pups compliments each day.

The fancy outhouse at Turn Point Lighthouse, Stuart Island

Heading east back to La Conner - Mount Baker from the San Juan Islands

The San Juan summer has also been usually windy this year. Great for the sailors. The day we head back to La Conner is the quintessential San Juan summer day - no wind, glassy water, and warm. Secondly, we hit the currents just right (meaning they are moving the same way we are heading), and are tied up in our slip at La Conner by eary afternoon! We headed back a week early in order do a winery tour in Eastern Washington with Jenny's brother and sister-in-law. Ah, the sacrifices one makes in life...

Jenny and Bobby on the way to wine country - Roslyn was where Northern Exposure was filmed

Replica of Stonehenge on the Columbia River

After preparing the boat for the winter, it is back to Hawaii, Until next season - Aloha!

Garrison Bay, San Juan Island to Fisherman Bay, Lopez island

2011-07-25T15:34:00.001-07:00

For the five days anchored in Garrison Bay (San Juan Island), we managed to receive a day and a half of sunshine. Jenny continues paddling the double seater Klepper kayak in the morning or evening when the wind is calm or calmer, as long as it is not raining. She is staying in shape to paddle with the North Shore Canoe Club in Hawaii for the long distance racing season in September. At our age, it becomes increasing difficult have enough paddlers qualified to crew a race.

Running is the onshore activity Jenny maintains as often as possible. There is a trail from Garrison Bay to Roche Harbor (4 miles one-way), and trails within English Camp State Park by the bay to hike or run. This visit, Jenny headed south on the roadway from the state park. Besides the run, she checked out the Alpaca Farm's store (lovely woven clothing, some even imported from Peru), and the States Inn Farm's store of local eggs and produce.

July 20th, we depart Garrison Bay for a 2 1/2 hour run to Parks Bay (west side of Shaw Island and across the San Juan Channel from Friday Harbor on the east side of San Juan Island ). Once again we buddy anchor with S/V Kocoa for the night. Jenny's evening paddle involves the local wildlife of herons, kingfishers, and harbor seals. The S/V Adventuress (old multi-masted wooden trading ship) also sails into the bay with a sailing camp crew of high school students dousing sails and tying them up onto the booms.

The next day (Thursday, 21 July), both vessels make the hour run to Fisherman Bay, Lopez Island. Thankfully, we are in the bay, refueled, and tied up at the marina before the wind really picks up. Here we get a better internet reception than at our homeport, so it is time to catch up on email, downloading photos, and this blog.

Saturday the family is doing a triple birthday party (Aunt Heidi's 82d, Jenny's 54th, and Rebecca's 21st) at Kristi and Roger's beach house. Brad and Darla ride the BMW up and get a morning ferry. They will overnight on "The Star". The Saturday Lopez routine is the Farmer's Market, grocery shopping in the village, putting out crab pots, cleaning crabs, and eating a big family meal together. We are in luck - lots of crabs are caught, and the sun maintains an appearance for the entire weekend.

At the Islander Resort and Marina Restaurant Sunday evening, Jenny and Bobby enjoy a dinner and Abbey Road Band concert (a Beatles band). Great end to a lovely weekend. Today (Monday, 25 July) is overcast, windy, and rainy.

Finally On Our Way to Garrison Bay

2011-07-15T14:38:00.000-07:00

It is overcast today, but not raining. By 0945, slack water is present in the Swinomish Channel, meaning it is time to cast off and head out. The currents in the channel can run up to three knots, and sometimes there is no slack - the current just changes directions.
With a full keel (weighted bottom that counteracts the sails and rigging above, and runs almost the entire length of the boat at the waterline) and one small prop, we do not have much power backing up, nor are we able to counteract a current hitting us from either side. Even with a barely perceptible current, Bobby backs "The Star" out of the slip as Jenny counteracts the current shoving the stern (rear of the boat) by applying the boat hook (metal pole) against something on the opposite side. Some boats, usually powerboats, have a bow thruster which provides this function with a push of a button. Bobby yells a bit after Jenny is already responding to the situation. Works just as well.

When we come into a slip/dock to tie-up, Jenny lays out the stern (rear) and bow (front) lines outside the rigging along the toerail (outside line of the deck) ending at the center of the boat next to the spring line. This way, she can hop off with the spring line and tie up "The Star" at the middle, then pick up the stern line and walk it back to the rear of the boat to tie off, and lastly get the bow line as she walks/runs forward. How quickly this is carried out depends on wind conditions and current. This is after laying out the fenders on whatever side we will tie up to the dock or possibly switching fenders and lines to the other side due to conditions as we approach the marina in whatever weather. Meanwhile, Bobby remains ensconced in the enclosure sitting at the wheel. This could be the major reason men like "boating"!

Today (Friday, 15 July), "The Star" heads north out of the Swinomish Channel, turns east into the Guemes Channel to pass Anacortes, crosses the Rosario Strait, and enters the San Juan Islands through Thatcher Pass. We round the north end of Lopez Island, and run the southern side of Shaw Island to head north up the San Juan Channel. At the north end of San Juan Island, we again head east into the Spieden Channel. Entering into Roche Harbor, our heading continues south into Mosquito Pass and onto Garrison Bay. A easy six-hour run.

Here, the S/V Kocoa (Jenny's parents' boat) is anchored. We slip alongside and tie-up together.

Anchoring is easier than tying up to a dock. After figuring out the water depth at high tide (and that you will have enough water underneath during low tide), adding in the height of the deck off the water, the anchor is dropped with enough chain to allow a scope of 3:1 feet in normal conditions. Windy conditions can increase the scope to 5:1 or even 10:1 in a gale/hurricane. After a fair amount of the chain is let out, back down on the anchor (engine in reverse) and ensure it bites into the bottom, then let out the remainder of the calculated amount of scope. Prudent sailors will use the GPS to confirm the anchor is set and remain aboard for an hour or so to ensure the boat is not drifting (a condition that may also arise upon change of current direction or increase of wind conditions). Upon departure, bring up the scope, keeping the boat fairly lined up on the chain, while idling forward enough to provide slack on the chain.

Tonight is a full moon. Bobby spends the part of the night watching the full moon between the clouds. The clouds' reflection in the water makes it seem as if "Wanderin' Star" is floating in the sky.

Another Chilly Summer Cruising the San Juan Islands

2011-07-08T14:10:00.000-07:00

The San Juan Islands - where we are headed

If Bobby thought last summer was the coldest he ever lived through - the weather this summer is in fierce competition. The temperatures are colder than normal (again), in addition to rainy days after the 4th of July (virtually unheard of in the Pacific Northwest). Unbelievable, as the remainder of mainland U.S. is broiling! Our original plan entailed sailing up the coast of British Columbia, Canada, but the weather forced rethinking. So, we will sail the San Juan Islands again this summer.

S/V Wanderin' Star requires little cleaning inside and out to be presentable after a winter of hanging at the dock. We found the engine room fire extinguisher out of date and unable to be serviced easily (too old), so off we head to the nearest West Marine store in Anacortes. Of course, the smaller size extinguisher we need to fit into the engine room's rack requires ordering and is not able to be delivered for 10 days. At least the emergency flares are in stock, as ours are due to expire the end of July.

S/V Kocoa and Nigeria Marine Police - Did someone make a wrong turn?!

Jenny's parents spent two days sailing up to the La Conner marina, after July 4th, to spend a few days with us before they head into the San Juan Islands. We will follow once we have the fire extinguisher and the rain quits. Not only does Bobby detest the cold, he is a fair weather sailor.

Bobby does the crabbing and Jenny paddles the kayak

Lopez Island and Saddlebag Island

2010-12-31T12:30:00.000-08:00

Sunset at Saddlebag Island.

Another Dungeness Crab dinner in the cockpit.
Underway again - staying warm inside the cockpit enclosure.

Bobby and Paden heading out to check the crab pot.
Bobby cleaning crabs.

Wednesday, 11 August, we return to Lopez Island for Jenny's Aunt's birthday. This time we dock at Island Marine Center in Fisherman's Bay. Jenny's nephew, Paden, ferries over on his motorcycle to visit and overnight. We also find pirate vessels arriving on the 12th - turns out the Lattitudes and Attitudes (cruising magazine) Pacific Northwest cruise is overnighting here also. The three of us head up to the bar to find it is the same place the Latts and Atts pirate crowd is hanging out at this evening, including magazine owner, Bob Bitchin' and his wife. All of us enjoyed watching an older couple cutting the rug together.

By Friday, the cousins and aunt arrived for her 81st birthday. Jenny's middle cousin and husband, owners of the beach house on the bay, are unable to come as Kristi is having surgery on a broken ankle. The rest of us pull off a festive weekend.

Time is approaching for Bobby to return to La Conner for medical appointments. On our way back, we spend a day at Saddlebag Island across from Anacortes and the entrance to the Swinomish Channel.

Still in La Conner

2010-09-20T13:57:00.000-07:00

In the Pacific Northwest it has been a "Bummer Summer". Temperatures were 5-10 degrees below normal. June was rainier than usual, and we even had some rain in August. Now, when we expect a warm, dry September - it is the wettest on record!

We canceled plans to head back to the San Juan Islands this month due to the weather. And we are preparing the boat for a winter layover. We will fly to our home in Hawaii 3 October and return to "The Star" late spring or early summer in 2011.

La Conner to Hope Island and Back

2010-08-31T13:06:00.000-07:00

On the way to Hope Island.

Rainbow Bridge at the south end of La Conner.

La Conner from the Swinomish Channel.

Taking the tidal current south, we depart the La Conner marina to head to nearby Hope Island for five days. The weather is cool, but okay, so we decide not to head out too far, plus Bobby has another medical appointment in a week.

Only a few boats are at Hope Island when we arrive, so we pick up a mooring ball and enjoy the quiet. The hike around the island is not well marked in spots and can turn into somewhat of an adventure if you do not pay attention. We did a lot of reading cuddled up in fleece. On Sunday, we catch the tidal current and head back to La Conner marina.

Stuart Island, Orcas Island, and Shaw Island

2010-08-12T23:37:00.000-07:00

S/V Wanderin' Star anchored in Massacre Bay, West Sound, Orcas Island.

Jenny's mom and Bobby in cockpit of S/V Kocoa in Reid Harbor, Stuart Island.

Bobby returning with crabs after checking the crab pot in Reid Harbor.

We continue to buddy boat with Jenny's parents (S/V Kocoa). After departing delightful Roche Harbor on the north end of San Juan Island, we make the quick trip back to Stuart Island. This time we stay in Reid Harbor at the marine park dock. The state park is on a narrow finger of land with Reid Harbor on the west side and Prevost Harbor to the east. Reid Harbor is usually more protected than Prevost Harbor, and thus warmer. Due to the cooler summer this year, Jenny's parents are able to tolerate the warmer Reid Harbor side of the park. From here, S/V Kocoa departs the San Juan Islands for a 2-3 day return to Seattle.

"The Star" heads to the Massacre Bay, West Sound, on Orcas Island. In between rain showers, Jenny kayaks and Bobby completes a few boat chores. Through light rain on 9 August (Monday), we cruise over to East Sound, past Rosario Resort, to the end of the sound. This sound is exposed to wind funneling up the waterway, and with the deteriorating summer weather, we decided to head back to Blind Bay, Shaw Island. There is a small store by the ferry landing at Blind Bay we dinghy to for a few fresh grocery items. Harbor seals and their pups are using rocks (just outside the west end of the bay, making it the side not to exit the bay!) exposed at low tides to hang out.

Garrison Bay and Roche Harbor, San Juan Island

2010-08-04T22:11:00.000-07:00

Bobby and the Hotel de Haro at Roche Harbor, San Juan Island.
The old lime kilns at Roche Harbor.

View of Roche Harbor Marina from gardens of Hotel de Haro.

Afterglow Vista Mausoleum at Roche Harbor.

Bobby's favorite position - reading at anchor.

English Camp Encampment Day of Victorian times.

Jenny and her mom with birthday cake, Garrison Bay.

English Camp and Garrison Bay.

View from atop Young Hill, English Camp Park.

S/V Kocoa and S/V Wanderin' Star buddy anchored in Garrison Bay.

Wednesday, 28 July, S/V Wanderin' Star and Jenny's parents' boat, S/V Kocoa leave Friday Harbor and head around the north end of San Juan Island to anchor in Garrison Bay. San Juan Island was the site of "The Pig War" between Britain and the United States 1860-1872. The English and Americans were arguing over the border between Canada and the United States, with the British claiming the boundary ran south of San Juan Islands. Both sides had settlers on the island, one side's pig got into someone's garden on the other side and was shot - leading to much male posturing and both sides setting up military camps until the matter was settled some years later. At Garrison Bay, the English established their camp in a state of permanence on a prime spot of real estate. The Americans threw up a fort on the southern end of the island and remained living and drilling under harsh conditions (drinking problems were an issue - imagine that!). Possibly, being assigned at American Camp may have been better than fighting in the Civil War.

A recently completed trail through public and private land allows one to travel off-road between English Camp Park at Garrison Bay to Roche Harbor. Jenny enjoyed running this trail and hiking the park trails, especially up Young Hill for a panoramic view of the island and Vancouver Island, Canada. On Saturday (31 July), English Camp had an Encampment Day with folks recreating how people lived at the time the Camp was an active military post.

On Monday, 2 August, both boats move to the marina at Roche Harbor to catch up on laundry and restock groceries. Roche Harbor is a small resort town where a family company processed lime years ago. We hike through the Sculpture Garden in a field, and to Afterglow Vista (lime company family's mausoleum). The grounds in front of the old hotel is a lovely garden adding to the picturesque beauty of this port. Two days are all we need at a marina dock to be ready to move on...

Shaw Island, Jones Island, and Stuart Island

2010-07-29T20:58:00.000-07:00

Vessel comings and goings at Friday Harbor, San Juan Island.

Bobby and the Smith In-Laws on Stuart Island.

Dinghy Captain in Prevost Harbor, Stuart Island with "The Star" in the background.

Texas and Conch Republic (Key West) flags flapping towards the bow as we travel forward due to the stiff wind coming off the stern.

Bobby at the helm.

Bobby preparing to set out the crab pot at Jones Island.
Mother harbor seal with pup preparing to nurse on Jones Island.

Bobby on west side of Jones Island looking NW to Stuart Island and Canada.

At Blind Bay, Shaw Island, on the grill.
Heading down Harney Channel into the San Juan Islands on way to Shaw Island.

After 10 days back in La Conner for medical appointments, we are braving the cool summer temperatures and heading back to the San Juan Islands by 20 July. Throughout Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands are state marine parks (some complete islands). Some of the marine parks have docks/mooring balls for a nominal cost or with a pre-paid park pass for convenience. Ashore is a registration box - rangers check regularly to prevent boats from remaining past the allotted days. Another convenience for us is that it only takes half a day to reach the San Juan Islands and even less to hop from island to island. Quite a change from East Coast cruising.

Out with the tide through the north end of the La Conner Channel, we head west past Anacortes, across the Rosario Strait, dodging ferries and other water traffic to Blind Bay, Shaw Island. Eagles and harbor seals provide visual entertainment during the day, and once the sun sets, lighted ferries, docking at Shaw Island and across Harney Channel at Orcas Island.

Next stop - Jones Island. We pick up a mooring ball at the island marine park's north anchorage. Taking the dinghy ashore, we hike the island, and enjoy seeing more eagles and harbor seals. Even with sketchy cell phone service in the San Juan Islands, we are able to contact Jenny's parents on S/V Kocoa. They are at Prevost Harbor on Stuart Island, just a short hop away, so the next day we are on our way to find a place to anchor before the weekend crowd arrives.

Stuart Island is not served by the state ferry system, so it can only be reached by boat or place. Right off the marine park dock at Prevost Harbor are two short hiking trails. It takes an hour for Jenny to kayak around the southern end of the harbor. By Saturday, we hike inland to the the one-room school. The few students are having a bake sale to raise funds for the upcoming school year's field trips. We make lunch of it, then head to the lighthouse end of the island with views of Canada. We miss out on seeing any orcas in Boundary Pass, but observe many vessels on this high traffic waterway.

Sunday, "Star" and "Kocoa" head south to Parks Bay, Shaw Island, as the wind is rising, making the first part of the trip a bit rough. We are unable to go ashore as Parks Bay is a research area for the University of Washington, but we do have ferries and floatplanes moving in and out of Friday Harbor across from us for visual interest. By mid-morning the following day, both vessels head over to the Friday Harbor marina. Here we can do laundry and restock supplies in town. Boats flow in and out all day long. Friday Harbor is one of the largest ports in the San Juan Islands and also a Port of Entry. After a few days of frentic activity all around us, it is time for "Island Time".

4th of July at Lopez Island

2010-07-11T18:46:00.000-07:00

Bobby overlooking James Island East Anchorage and S/V Wanderin' Star.

"The Star", Mount Baker, and a Washington State Ferry.

Floatplane landing on Fisherman's Bay, Lopez Island

Orcas off southern end of Lopez Island.

The summer is starting off cooler and rainier than usual. So, we are unable to consider cruising until the 4th of July weekend. Friday, July 2d (sunny, light winds), we head south out of the Swinomish Channel, through Deception Pass (between Fidalgo and Whidbey Islands) with a 4.5 knot current., and west across Rosario Strait, passing the southern end of Lopez Island. Here we stay offshore due to a pod of orcas moving along the same direction. At the San Juan Channel, heading north between San Juan and Lopez Islands to Fisherman's Bay, the engine goes into neutral until the orcas pass across our bow.

"The Star" and crew join family gathering for independence celebrations of eating, fireworks, and parades at a cousin's beach home on Fisherman's Bay, Lopez Island. We anchor amidst other vessels in the bay and travel by dinghy to the beach to join in family activities. Jenny's brother and sister-in-law arrive by motorcycle and stay aboard. The temperatures remain cool - thank goodness we are stocked with fleece!

On the return to La Conner, we overnight at the James Island Marine Park east anchorage. It's slightly rolly due to the ferries heading in and out of Anacortes, but the view is tremendous and we are the only vessel here. Ah, a lovely hike through the island forest, grilling dinner off the stern, and cocktails at sunset - it does not get much better than this!

Vessel Reconstruction Post Shipping Across Country

2010-05-19T18:18:00.000-07:00

"Wanderin' Star's" land shipment across country began in Southern Florida, proceeded up north to Iowa, and then westward to Washington. Winds up to 80 mph, at a pass in the Cascade Mountains into Western Washington, sheared off the shrink wrap (saving us the cost of removal at the boatyard in La Conner, WA). Unfortunately, a chunk of shrink wrap caught on a rear lifeline stanchion and tore it out of the base. So, the base and stanchion are at the welding shop for repairs.

While the boat crossed the country up north, we hit the road staying south. Our route took us to:

Florida - visit Barry and Nancy Sullivan in Panama City

Mississippi - Gulf Coast, drive up along the Mississippi River, Natchez, Vicksburg

Arkansas - visit Bobby's family, Hot Springs, Talimena Scenic Drive

Oklahoma - Runestone State Park (Viking runes carved in valley cliff before Columbus)

Texas - visit Bill and Janet Galyean in Houston, Paint Rock (Indian art on cliff), BBQ

New Mexico - Dinosaur Tracks State Park, Enchanted Circle/Taos, Taos Pueblo, Chaco Canyon

Colorado - San Juan Skyway, Telluride, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Ouray, Silverton

Arizona - Canyon de Chelly, Painted Desert/Petrified Forest, Grand Canyon, Oak Creek

Canyon/Sedona

California - Cambria, Big Sur, Sequoia National Park, Yosemite, Napa Valley, Fort Bragg,

Redwood State and National Parks

Oregon - Crater Lake

Washington - La Conner and end of journey 13 May

The "Star" arrived 2 May at the boatyard with Jenny's Dad overseeing the bottom painting and remasting. We met Dad by Friday, 14 May, for the tuning of the standing rigging (cables that hold the masts in place). Over the next days, we reinstalled sails and covers, remounted the anchor on the bow and the dinghy on the stern davits, rewired each mast, cleaned the deck and performed numerous other chores.

Our cruising of the San Juan Islands will begin early June, once we reinstall the life line stanchion and Bobby has his initial medical appointments with his Primary Care Physician and Oncologist.

Prepping "The Star" to be Shipped

2010-04-23T14:12:00.000-07:00

Last year (2009) was Bobby's fight and recovery from cancer. As he is now in remission for over a year, medical requirements are less frequent.

In order to maximize sailing with "The Star", we are shipping the boat from Florida to Washington. This move will allow us to spend 2-3 weeks cruising Puget Sound/San Juan Islands and British Columbia, Canada inbetween medical appointments. Something not very practical on the East Coast due to the distances required to travel anywhere.

On 19 April, we motored the boat to the boatyard for prepping for overland shipping by tractor-trailer rig. The dinghy was secured on the foredeck; sails, anchor and outboard removed and stowed below; and all covers/enclosure panels removed. The riggers removed both the main and mizzen masts. Each boom was secured aboard, the standing rigging removed from the masts and stowed below, the running rigging secured to the masts, and the masts protectively wrapped. After our new motorboat was lifted from the water, she was shrink wrapped, and loaded on the trailer with the masts alongside.

As "The Star" travels from Florida up to Iowa, and west to Washington, we are driving through the Southwest and up the West Coast starting on 23 April.

Happy New Year 2009

2009-01-01T08:31:00.000-08:00

Bobby and Jenny at the Tapon Bay Yacht Club Condo Holiday Party
Note the removed canvas bimini in the cockpit and the plastic/duct tape portlights (hey, they don't leak!)

Moving on is delayed as the "Star" is getting a makeover. Bobby removed all the old plastic portlights - before the new stainless steel ones were even shipped. This phenomenon caused the weather to change with cold fronts coming through every few days (wind, rain and cooler temperatures), making the conditions rough offshore, so we would not want to head south anyway.

Then due to the economy, we decided to put on a hardtop over the cockpit. Either the fabricators would have no work or they would be backed up through the end of January with work orders for boats wanting to head to the Bahamas after the holidays. Break for us, no work orders, so the aluminum frame was built in a few days, and put on the boat in one day. The day after, the 1/4" fiberglass top was attached. Now, we have a new canvas enclosure being constructed.

Got the new stainless steel portlights just before Christmas Day, so Bobby will have something to keep him busy for the next few weeks.

Bobby sitting in the cockpit as the workers place stands to hold the frame for the hardtop while the supports are fabricated onsite
Bobby watching the fiberglass hardtop being added to the frame
Completed hardtop

Happy Thanksgiving Y'All

2008-11-27T18:27:00.000-08:00

Tom Campbell, Alan Symes and Chris Blair

Bobby with the ladies - Susann Symes, Robin Blair and Sandy Campbell

The Sandpiper Marina is a mile from the condo complex where the Chris and Robin Blair (S/V Toucan Dream), Tom and Sandy Campbell (S/V Magic Reunion), and Don and Barb Tonelli (M/V ?) now live. All were Watergate Yachting Center liveaboards at Clear Lake, Texas, that individually migrated across the Gulf of Mexico to Florida. Their condo complex includes dock space, making it appealing for boat owners (saves the cost of keeping a boat at a marina). Now Alan and Susann Symes (M/V Kaos) are here making an offer on a condo.

This means Thanksgiving is a reunion of replanted Texans. We gather at Tom and Sandy's condo on the ground floor by the river. As Bobby steps out of the screened-in patio to smoke after dinner, the conversation turns to alligators being in the waters/ponds around the area - the one seen regularly on the river banks of the condo complex is called, "Boscoe". Just as Sandy flips on the patio light to "light Bobby up so the gator can see him", Bobby quickly turns to the screen door, stubs out his cigarette and rushes back inside! His next smoke break is out the front door!!!

We will be here for a few weeks enjoying the warm weather, and replacing the UV damaged plastic portlights on the "Star" with stainless steel.

Happy Thanksgiving y'all! Enjoy the approaching holiday season with your loved ones. Wish we could be with you...

Fort George River to Port St. Lucie, FL

2008-11-24T17:30:00.000-08:00

Kingsley Plantation, Fort George Island, Florida
Tabby wall slave quarters curving on either side of land entrance to Kingsley Plantation

Wanderin' Star anchored off plantation
Evening looking west towards Jacksonville, FL with nuclear power plant towers in the distance
Fox Cut south of St. Augustine with amazing boat docks: covered for boat and 4 jet skis, the double decker with deck over boat; the triple, double and single - fishing reins!

Another day benefiting from currents in our favor. We anchor Wednesday afternoon in the Fort George River, across from the Kingsley Plantation. It is a state park with a dock available to tie-up from 0900-1630, and a ranger tour daily at 1400 hours. Jenny rows the dinghy over to the dock to walk the grounds. The plantation house is modest, but the interesting part is the tabby walled slave quarters still standing in an arc on either side of the road entrance. Kingsley was the final owner, known for buying slaves (once the slave trade was banned, meaning no new slaves entering the country), and training them so well that a Kingsley slave added $200-300 to the selling price. He married a freed slave. They lived in separate homes (as it was illegal for mixed race couples to live together), and their children were legally recognized by Mr. Kingsley. Mrs. Kingsley owned her own land (from Spanish grants) and worked it with her own slaves. At one point, Mrs. Kingsley and the children (including freed slaves) fled to Haiti when it appeared they might be returned to slavery (around the Civil War). Upon Mr. Kingsley's death, Mrs. Kingsley returned to the United States and fought for his/her legal property. She won.

By Friday (21 Nov), we are past St. Augustine and heading south of Daytona Beach while listening to Christmas music on the radio. I know, how did this happen when "The Grinch"
(Bobby) is on board?! At the Sheephead Cut anchorage in New Symrna Beach, the 25 knot winds and swift currents oppose each other and snap us about the anchor. Bobby is on anchor watch until 0200, but there is not much sleep occurring below. A long sleepless night for us both.
The next day we are in Titusville by noon. Within a few hours at the city marina, we refuel, fill water tanks, pumpout, and restock groceries. Not surprisingly, it is an early night. Sunday, we anchor behind a small island in the Indian River south of Melbourne. Does it sound as we are desperate to keep heading south? We are. Cold fronts continue to hit the coast. Encased in fleece each morning, we are peeling off clothing layers earlier every day.

Monday (24 Nov), we make enough speed heading down the Indian River to put in 75 miles (usual day is 50 miles). That gets us up the St. Lucie River (one end of the Okeechobee Waterway - crossing between east/west Florida without having to travel around the Keys) to Port St. Lucie and the Sandpiper Marina on the North Fork shortly before the dockmaster closes up for the day. Chris Blair and Tom Campbell dinghy out to lead us in and assist us in tying up (friends from the marina we lived at in Texas, and the marina we spent last winter at on Florida's west coast). Even more amazing is Bobby lassoing a stern line around a piling some distance from the boat on the first try, in the presence of witnesses! The boy must be from Texas!

Indian River (ICW) and its islands north of Vero Beach, Florida

Beaufort, SC to Jekyll Island, GA

2008-11-18T17:53:00.000-08:00

Beaufort, SC waterfront

Church cemetery - English born soldier, survivor of the Charge of the Light Brigade and served in the Confederate Army

Typical house in Beaufort with arched basement

Robert Smalls - born into slavery, commandeered Confederate gunboat to present to Union in 1862, served in SC's Congress and as an US Congressman for 8 years

From Beaufort, South Carolina, the ICW passes Parris Island, Hilton Head Island, and Daufuskie Island. Daufuskie Island??? Daufuskie (from da fus key or the first key or the first island) is still cut off from the mainland (no bridges). In the 1960's, the descendants of slaves living on the island had little contact with the outside world and lacked the conveniences beginning to impact our lives. Local area author, Pat Conroy, taught school on the island for a year, introducing the students to new ideas/things. The movie, "Conrack" and the book, "The River is Wide" describe his experience. Today, resort homes are beginning to line the shores under Hilton Head-like development.

We anchor out for the night, 3 miles from the Savannah River (border of South Carolina and Georgia). Immediately from our anchorage the following morning, we are held up outside Field's Cut due to a dredge tow with pipes maneuvering into the cut. Wisely, we wait until the whole combination is through the turn, lined up, and waiting for large ship traffic to pass on the Savannah River, before we call the tug captain to request passage.

Upon entering the Savannah River to cross the ship channel (meaning a charted channel for large commercial ship traffic to enter and exit a harbor, or head out an inlet to sea), we see a ship one mile upriver heading towards us. We turn upriver, staying just outside the channel to starboard, until the ship passes and then cut across the river to the next leg of the waterway. Later, we hear on Channel 16 (VHF channel everyone monitors) of a catamaran (boat with two hulls) trying to play chicken by cutting across the channel in front of a large ship. Needless to say, the ship captain was curious to know if the catamaran captain throught he could out run a vessel bearing down on him doing 20 knots.

Along the way, we pass St. Catherine's Island. This island is owned by a foundation running a survival center as its climate is suitable for breeding rare and endangered species, such as gazelles, parrots, and Madagascar turtles. Next, we pass Sapelo Island. Once owned by tobacco magnate, R.J. Reynolds, it now houses the University of Georgia's Marine Institute (one of the East Coast's outstanding research centers). Next is private Little St. Simons Island. A resort accessible only by boat and limited to 24 overnight guests for nature watching. On to St. Simons Island with its resort colony and historic area.

By 18 Nov (Tuesday), we arrive at the Jekyll Island Harbor Marina after two chilly days/nights at anchor. With NW winds up to 15-25 knots, passage across the small sounds was no dig deal. Not enough fetch (open water) to build up waves higher than 2-3', and usually the wind
generated waves were coming at our stern. Today's underway speed was between 6-8 knots, so we arrived early at 1400; putting in 55 miles. With a record cold (in the 30s) for the next two nights, at least we have power tonight to run the heater. Yes, we can crank up the generator tomorrow night to operate the heater, if needed. We stayed here in June (with temperatures in the 90s) and walked to the historic Millionaire's Village. The island was purchased by millionaires in the 1800s for a winter hunting club (now a 4-star hotel). Families eventually built "cottages" (mansions) around the club. Now the state of Georgia owns the island, with 2/3ds undeveloped and only a few low-lying hotels on the beach.

During dinner at the marina's SeaJay's restaurant, we visited with another cruising couple that went through a bridge with us yesterday. Turns out they had the same experience Monday we did with the same single-handed slow boat cutting in front of everyone awaiting on bridge openings, then staying mid-channel making it difficult for anyone to pass; even veering close to other boats while he was below. It's not just us! In addition, they related how a boat's mast broke into 3 pieces when a bridge tender closed a pivoting bridge too soon. Another dining couple told us how they barely escaped a bridge closing on them just as they were beginning to pass through. Turns out these vessels ended up in a group where only one vessel contacted the bridge tender saying he and so many vessels behind him were awaiting the next opening - they did not contact the bridge tender individually (lesson learned). Most of the bridge tenders
request each vessel's name and homeport, and we always thank the bridge tender as we clear giving our vessel name.

Flock of migrating geese on the ICW in South Carolina

Jekyll Island, GA - Millionaire's Hunting Club Hotel from dock on ICW

Waccamaw River, NC to Beaufort, SC

2008-11-16T16:30:00.000-08:00

Waccamaw River

Departing anchorage south of McClellanville, NC

Heading to Charleston in the fog

Fort Sumter - first shots of the Civil War

Charleston, SC

Elliot Cut (current does not look extreme)

Buoy by Elliot Cut showing current

Reluctantly, we depart the Osprey Marina and enter the scenic Waccamaw River (some of the loveliest miles on the ICW). Somehow we are able to spend the day by ourselves. Much needed privacy after the hectic day yesterday. Tidal currents are with us for most of the day, so we make good time and pile on some additional miles before anchoring just past McClellanville, NC.

On Thursday (13 Nov), we head into Charleston harbor after a morning of fog; passing Fort Sumter as we cross the Cooper River. As we enter the Ashley River, we pass "The Battery", the historic area of Charleston. Making a turn to port, it is into the Wappoo Creek with the current increasing against us (ebb current). Past Wappoo Creek-James Island Bridge is the narrow and short Elliot Cut (1/4 mile). With the engine at 1800 rpms (our usual for running at 6 knots), the "Star is barely inching forward at 1.3 knots. Bobby is working hard at the wheel keeping the bow in the middle of the cut as the current swirls past at its peak, and two vessels behind us ready to enter. At this rate, it will take a long time to clear the cut - "Bobby, why don't we try increasing our speed (rpms) to get through here faster and easier", asks Jenny? "Oh", he replies. Sure enough, at 2000 rpms, hull speed is up to 2.3 knots, and we clear the cut 9 minutes later. There are places to anchor on either side of Elliot's Cut to await slack tide (time between tidal changes when currents cease or reduce significantly in strength). We would recommend waiting for the slack, especially if your vessel engine is small.

We spend two nights anchored out before we arrive at Beaufort, South Carolina. The current is strong on the Beaufort River, so we turn the boat into the current to dock. As we are heading to Beaufort, the inverter we plug the navigation laptop into for AC power dies (under engine power we only have DC current, hence 2 sets of lights around the boat for AC or DC power). Another reason to keep paper charts out in addition to the electronic screen display. No worries, we are staying here for two days, the marina has a courtesy vehicle, so we will be able to purchase a new inverter.

Bobby was at a Charleston shipyard with an Army landing craft (174') from Panama in the fall of 1994. Jenny hopped an Air Force flight to visit for two weeks, with her Mom and Aunt Heidi
flying in from Seattle. Part of the tourist agenda was a visit to Beaufort for a historic tour carriage ride. Back then, Beaufort was a sleepy Southern country town near Parris Island (Marine Corps recruit training base) with chain stores/restaurants out on the highway. The chains remain out of town, but downtown historic Beaufort is wide awake now! A lovely waterfront park/promenade is a wonderful addition to the revitalized town (lots of shops and restaurants). Traffic is constant heading over the bridge to life on the islands. As everywhere else, growth has also occurred here. We once considered retiring in Beaufort, but no longer. Jenny enjoyed a few days of sunrise running through the residential historic area (including where "The Great Santini" and "The Big Chill" were filmed). We partook of fabulous meals of breakfast and seafood at Blackstone's and Kathleen's, respectively. After changing the engine oil and resealing the plastic windows of our cockpit enclosure from UV rays, it is time to wait for the slack between tides (noon) and four boats on the inside of the T-dock to depart before we can swing the stern around to head on our way.

View of ICW from Beaufort, SC

Just one of the large oaks in Beaufort

Home where "The Great Santini" and "The Big Chill" were filmed

Swansboro, NC to Myrtle Beach, SC

2008-11-11T16:53:00.000-08:00

Anchorage north of Mrytle Beach

North Carolina is a fishing mecca as small fishing boats are out all over the waterways this long weekend. Most homes along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) have docks and boat lifts. Now I know where the powerboat companies make their profits.

Our trip continues Sunday (9 Nov) through Camp Lejeune's artillery firing range, complete with armored mobile launcher targets right on the east bank of the ICW. I would not want to pass through here with a marine needing lots of practice lobbing artillery rounds at targets!

The bridges along the route down to Wrightsville Beach (near Wilmington) open on the hour, or hour and half hour. There is no conversation with the bridge tender, your boat better be on time or it will not open or will close after the boats slightly ahead of you are through. We are being patient with other boaters, even though some slower boats move ahead of the pack awaiting a bridge opening, instead of staying in line as they arrive, then proceed through the bridge opening slowly, holding everyone else up and making everyone spend additional time getting around them (some even remain mid-channel so you can not get around). The result is a continual passing of the same boats at every bridge with a long wait for an opening.

While crossing and heading downriver on the Cape Fear River on the flood (meaning the tidal current if going the same direction you are), the "Star" got up to 9.6 knots. The fastest speed she has been at since we have owned her. Our usual speed is about 6 knots (7 mph), with a range of 35-60 miles/day depending on if we are anchoring out or staying at a marina. We try to do a early (35 miles) day when staying overnight at a marina, so we have time to refuel, scrub the deck, do laundry, shop for groceries, and any other chores required. Otherwise we continue until the late afternoon to an anchorage (definitely before sundown).

We anchored past Wrightsville Beach Sunday night with that city lights to the north and Carolina Beach's lights to the south with a three quarters moon. Monday, was a day strangely without being caught up in a boat gaggle. We had the waterway to ourselves and relished in the peace. Dolphins sightings are becoming more frequent.

The ICW in the Myrtle Beach area requires a day of patience. A few bridges to pass through, with quite a few boats all together. Some slower vessels keep moving up to the bridge as everyone else stays in line as they arrive waiting for the opening. Then the slow boats fearfully creep through the bridge opening, so everyone behind them can barely move forward, increasing the length of time the bridge stops vehicular traffic. Now the line of boats spends time (if there is room) passing the slow boats, if slow boat bothers to look behind them and stay out of the middle of the channel. You can try contacting them on the VHF radio, but usually will get no answer as the slow boat is being single-handed and their VHF is not in the cockpit (where the captain is steering). In addition, many new fixed bridges (65' height) have gone up in this area that are not on the chart or in cruising guides. So lead boat of the pack freaks out and slows down to creep up to the new bridge (all new bridges are built at 65') not sure if their mast will pass under. Time to practice yoga meditation - ohmmmm.

In this section is an overhead cable tramway. The tram cars carry golfers from the clubhouse over the ICW to the golf course and back!

Our reward after all this on Tuesday (11 Nov), is a stay at the friendly and lovely Osprey Marina for the night. Time to do laundry, scrub down the "Star's" deck, and enjoy the full moon with our bag of goodies the marina provides to all transient boaters. Ah, life is good after all.

Osprey Marina off the ICW

Alligator River to Swansboro, NC

2008-11-08T16:31:00.000-08:00

I'm thinking flamingo for the "Star's" bow...Bobby will never notice.
It is rare to see a North Carolinian fishing without being in a boat (I think we saw this same couple here on our way north).
A sunset at Pungo Creek anchorage by Belhaven, NC.

By Thursday morning, 6 Nov, the storm front passed with the wind dropping off enough for us to make a run towards Belhaven. A good portion of the day will be in the Alligator/Pungo River Canal protected from the wind. Some boats are remaining in place another day, so we are only being passed on occasion by powerboats today.

Just past Belhaven, is Pungo Creek, where we enjoy a solitary anchorage, a beautiful sunset, a brilliant half moon, and sparkling stars at nightfall. The 5-day wind finally dies as we set the hook. The following morning is sunny with no wind. Bobby finally gets to use the deck washdown he installed to hose off the muddy chain and anchor as we pull it up. As we head out, so are the boats that spent days holed up in Belhaven. The boat parade is on in full force now, stretched out for miles. As birds fly overhead, I wonder what they make of this migration on the surface of the water. Throughout the day, packs of powerboats pass the many slower sailboats, it is like traveling across country on the freeway.

Now, we glance to our stern at intervals to know if another vessel is gaining on us, and to see how our course is tracking through cross winds/currents. Out of consideration, we slow our speed when a vessel is approaching our stern, in order to assist them in passing quickly. The other (burdened) vessel, especially a high speed powerboat, should call on the VHF radio (as they can read the name on your stern) and slow down to avoid leaving the passed (privileged) vessel in a large wake. Even oncoming vessels should slow to pass each other without creating large confusing wakes. This occurs by the powerboat about half of the time. Even on the ICW, we travel underway as if offshore. Items are stowed and shelf nets are up, so we are prepared for wakes rolling us side-to-side or slamming our bow up and down causing spray to cascade onto the deck. After hours motoring along, Bobby can use a wake-up thrill every now and then. Once we contact the first inconsiderate passing vessel of the day on Channel 16 (which everyone monitors, including the Coast Guard), the others in the area begin calling as they approach slower vessels' sterns. Sailboats do not have a planing hull like a powerboat. Our hulls are displacement hulls with a keel. In addition, sailboat engines do not generate the speed to create a wake that may cause damage to passing vessels, anchored/docked vessels, or erode shorelines. Sailboats do need to be aware of the small amount of wake they create in narrow channels as it can have the effect of a fast powerboat in more open water.

The "Star" makes good time on the long Neuse River crossing, so it is too early to stop at Oriental on the north side or at Adam Creek anchorage on the south. We continue through the Adam Creek Canal encountering an ebb tide (current is against us, slowing us down from over 6 knots to under 5 knots). Out the other end into Core Creek, we decide to spend the night at Jarrett Bay Boatyard in Beaufort, as it is late afternoon and the sun is setting after 5pm. Scary thought, as this last summer we spent almost a month here for repairs. Lucky us, we tie-up in the lift basin at the exact spot on the wall. The large ball fenders put on the wall for us in July are still there! Jenny gets in a run before sunset, using the cockpit shower to rinse sand off her running shoes afterwards. She continues to find multiple uses for equipment (to further justify forcing Bobby to purchase and install them - or so he says)

Faithful Bobby listens to the NOAA weather report every morning and night. We are suppose to have winds 10-15 knots Saturday, 8 Nov. Good thing we leave early today - already the wind is piping up, and it continues throughout the day until it is gusting 25-30 knots late in the afternoon. By then, the boat's port side is smashed up against the dock squeezing the life out of the fenders (we had to flip around from the fuel dock on the ICW to the T-dock next to it, so we can get off the dock tomorrow morning if the SW winds pick up again). After 2 long days underway, we make a half-day run past Morehead City, through the shallow Bogue Sound to Swansboro. Dudley's Marina is a short walk to downtown historic Swansboro which we wander through and offers a courtesy car for grocery shopping which we use to reprovision. Hurricane Paloma is hitting Cuba as a category 4. It sounds as if it is breaking up after crossing Cuba. Bobby dodges another one.

Sunrise at Dudley's Marina and the town of Swansboro, NC.

Proof of global warming - giraffes are migrating to North Carolina for the winter.

Down the Dismal Swamp Canal

2008-11-05T15:23:00.000-08:00

Meeting up with the Boat Parade awaiting a bridge opening in Portsmouth/Norfolk, VA.

First in the Deep Creek Locks to enter the Dismal Swamp Canal.

Rafted up at the Dismal Swamp Canal dock at the Visitor's Center.

Bobby backed the "Star" out of the slip Friday, 31 Oct, and we were underway to the Dismal Swamp Canal after waiting for the weather to depart. Our July canal transit was with one other boat. Not this time...it is like being in a small boat parade through the Portsmouth/ Norfolk bridges. Fall is the season to head south on the Intracoastal Waterway. In addition, recent bad weather kept boats holed up in place for three days. Vessels raft up across the canal at the Visitor's Center dock, on Saturday, four deep (12 total) as if attending a family reunion on the waterway. All of us synchronize watches for the end of daylight savings time in order to make the next day's first lock opening on time. Sunday, the parade of vessels meanders through the South Mill locks and into Elizabeth City. Even through it is November, we do see turtles on stumps at the edge of the waterway taking in the sunshine.

In the country/small town regions, you will be without cell phone/internet service most of the time. On Sundays, just about everything is closed, so think about anchoring out.

Due to the weather deteriorating to high winds/rain 3-6 Nov, we motor across a calm Albemarle Sound early Monday morning to hide out from the storm at Alligator River Marina, as it is not as exposed as Elizabeth City. By the time we are entering the marina, there are five of us in a conga line coming in one after the other keeping the dockmaster hopping. Early Tuesday morning, the wind gusts to 40 knots begin (early morning being the time something bad usually happens in the dark). Sometimes it is better not to be out in the backcountry wondering if the anchor will hold.

The Boat Pack heading out of the Dismal Swamp Canal - clogged up waiting for the South Mills bridge to open, and in the South Mills Locks (notice we stayed out of the way in the rear).

Time to Head South for Warmer Weather

2008-10-30T13:29:00.000-07:00

Fishing dockmate perched on Jenny's kayak.

Lisa and Frank, and Andy Hale (dock neighbor) enjoying an evening aboard the Wanderin' Star.

Bobby, the storm dodger, avoided another hurricane season holed up at Salt Ponds Marina. Our worst weather was a 3-day Nor'easter gently rocking us at the docks, 23-25 Sep. Frank and Lisa Hotze (M/V Gnatnoop) thankfully arrived the day before and then spent 3 weeks with us doing maintenance and replacing their windlass.

Our liveaboard friends at Clear Lake, Texas (south of Houston) all came through Hurricane Ike with boats intact on 13 Sep, but are still dealing with no power at the marina's docks. If interested, check out photos of Watergate Yachting Center and other marinas/areas around Clear Lake at:
www.picasaweb.google.com/wilshusenfoley/starredphotos#
www.imagevent.com/deanaj/hurricaneike
Other photos of the damage in Galveston and surrounding areas at:
www.tpicks.com/pictures%20people%20have%20sent%20me.html

Due to NAS Jacksonville's marina losing an entire dock due to Hurricane Fay (late Aug) sitting overhead for 3 days, we did not head south earlier this fall. Needing a place to leave the Wanderin' Star for a month while attending Joy's (Jenny's cousin) wedding in Seattle mid-Oct, and provisioning for the Bahamas, remaining in place became Plan B.

Now is the time to go, the warm weather is creeping south, and we will follow.

Flooding at high tide during the Nor'easter on finger of land between Salt Ponds (left) and Chesapeake Bay (right) heading towards the marina.

Note sand/water halfway up basement garage door as waves come in from Chesapeake Bay causing flooding on roadway.

TS Hannah Passing Overhead

2008-09-06T07:58:00.000-07:00

Tropical Storm Hannah passing over Hampton, Viginia - Wanderin' Star rocking at the dock, the Chesapeake Bay, and the channel into Salt Ponds.

Tropical Storm Hannah is passing over us this Saturday morning. We are snugged down at a marina with floating docks in a salt marsh just inland from the Chesapeake Bay. The gusts of wind up to 45-55 knots rock the Star slightly over to one side off and on (something like being on a large, slow porch swing). By 1400 (2pm) we are supposed to back to clear skies and sunshine.

Since the end of August, one storm a week is hitting the United States. Tropical Storm Fay provided days of deluge for Florida. In Virginia, the storm gave us only overcast skies for five days. Hurricane Gustav kissed the Louisiana coast with much less ferocity than predicted on Labor Day. Relief washes over us to see Hurricane Ike's (Category 3) track will pass through the Florida Straits into the Gulf of Mexico. Still unsure as to what the storm behind Ike will develop into or where it will head, so we are delaying our departure from Salt Ponds Marina to head south. Historically, the storm peak season is over by 10 September.

During our stay, Bobby completed cleaning and reinstalling the engine heat exchanger, and gathering parts to install a deck washdown system. Jenny finished the few last canvas projects for the boat and read quite a few books. We also enjoyed a weekend at the Wichterman's in Gloucester.

Salt Ponds Marina Resort, Virginia

2008-08-13T07:27:00.000-07:00

Squall line of thunderstorm with green clouds (tornado conditions) at Salt Ponds Marina.

After heading back up to Deltaville again, we realized we know the Chesapeake Bay area from being assigned here years ago in the Army. Instead of wasting money on fuel hopping around, we decided to stay at a marina for a month. So, we are at Salt Ponds Marina Resort by Buckroe Beach in Hampton, Virginia. From here, depending on the activity this hurricane season, we can head south ahead of the seasonal boat rush (October). The plan is to get to NAS Jacksonville, Florida by mid-October, then head on to the Bahamas in November .

While Jenny is running and paddling in the kayak, Bobby's exercise is walking to the nearest store for beer (one mile away). His hard day is an 1.5 mile walk to the hardware or grocery store.

Remembering back to life in Texas - Jenny working on projects and Bobby laid back...well, life caught up with Bobby. Now, he is sanding teak, installing a deck washdown system, and etc. while Jenny enjoys reading and hanging at the pool. Life is sweet!

In addition, it is an unusual week of weather for 10-16 August. Feels like late September and we have shut off the AC!

Kayaking in the salt pond marshes and a shorebird.

Yorktown, Virginia

2008-07-31T09:58:00.000-07:00

Coast Guard Training vessels tied up at Yorktown docks for lunch, Colonial home, and Nelson's home with cannonballs lodged in it (see between upper two windows and to lower right of right first floor window).

The Star is back on the York River at the new dock at Yorktown (Riverwalk Landing, 757-890-3370). Yorktown has a new waterfront since Hurricane Isabel hit in 2003 - new dock, breakwater and beaches, walkway, Waterman Museum, and Colonial-style buildings for shops and restarants with parking. Is is an easy walk around the historic town, the Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center or the Victory Center. In the summer, a free trolley has stops around the sights, plus a shuttle runs from the Victory Center to the Colonial Capitol of Williamsburg and on to the first English settlement of Jamestown (able to see all three historic sights within 23 miles without a car).

Yorktown was the last official battle of the American Revolution (Oct 1781). General Washington caught Lord Cornwallis here in a seige. The English troops were unable to escape across the river to Glouscester Point, and the French Navy kept the British Royal Navy from entering the Chesapeake Bay to bring more troops and supplies. It took two years (1783) for the treaty to be signed by Britian recognizing the United States of America. The risk our forefathers took (rich and poor) to initiate a fight against Britain, against all odds, for six years, labeled as traitors/terrorists /rebels, was immense. Even afterwards, many struggled (due to lost property, lost wages due to soldiering for years, loss of wage earner, etc.) despite the struggle the new country incurred establishing itself with little to no money.

Every year the U.S. Army Transporation Center at Fort Eustus has a Transportation Week the last week of July, so we went to the barbeque Thursday night where we also saw Mike Keith and Linda Wahlman.

Yorktown battlefield from British defensive works to redoubts 9 and 10 that the French and Americans captured, ultimately causing the end of the Revolutionary War.

Rappahannock River, Virginia

2008-07-28T07:49:00.000-07:00

Ospery nest on a channel marker.

We are calling this summer "the summer without bugs" (especially mosquitoes). Due to the lack of pests, it is obvious a drought is occurring in The South. Another observation is the amount of ospreys we are seeing. Lone pilings with a shelf on top are placed along the waterways we have traveled for the birds to establish nests, in addition to the markers already used. We do not remember seeing these birds so often 20 years ago. I noticed the same feeling with the bald eagles in the Pacific Northwest - rarely sighted in the 70-80s, but often seen in the late 90s. Something is happening right for these creatures.

On our way to the Rappahannock River (north along the mainland Virginia coastline) Thursday, 24 July. First stop is Carter's Creek/Irvington. Nice quiet anchorage on the East Branch. Up the other branch are marinas and a resort. The next night we anchor on the West Branch of the Corrotoman River upriver where one of Virginia's last free 2-car cable ferries operates. Then it is to the south side of the Rappahannock River to Urbanna. We anchor across from the Town Dock and walk to town from the free dinghy dock. Small town with lots of marinas, shopping, restaurants, and a grocery store. Our entertainment all day Sunday is watching two guys getting a small sunken wooden fishing boat out of a slip at the Town Dock. It is done in pieces with a block and chain, chainsaw, and pulling large chucks up to the dock by a small pickup truck. By dark, the engine/stern section finally land on the dock to be pulled into the parking lot. It is still sitting there when we up anchor Monday morning.

Back out into the Chesapeake Bay, we head a bit south to the Pliankatank River and Jackson Creek (south side of Deltaville) to anchor off Deltaville Marina and Boatyard. There is a dinghy dock by the boatyard, and marina facilities can be used for $10/day (offers van ride to grocery store). The walk to shopping, NAPA Auto Parts, Post Office and a hardware store is a 1/2 mile and 1 mile.

After being anchored for 2 hours, one of our neighbors in the anchorage attaches his dinghy to the stern of his boat and pulls his boat around in a circle. There is plenty of space between our boats, so we are shocked when he dinghies over and screams (including obscenities) at us. Bobby refuses to move - guess we where in "his space". Back at his boat, he goes below and we do not see him again. We later learn from another neighbor that Mr. Crabby appears to be a miserable person. Seems he was knocked out by the boom hitting him in the head during a jybe (not the cause of his unhappiness) a few days ago and injured his hand. Nice neighbor offers to take him to a doctor...that is refused as doctors just find more stuff wrong with you and want money (hmm), and do not get shots as they are just a government control program...and so forth. Maybe this is why doctors find more wrong with you!

Another sunset at anchor, walking in Urbanna, and Jackson Creek/Deltaville, Virginia.

Doing the Dismal Swamp Canal

2008-07-23T06:43:00.000-07:00

Entering the Dismal Swamp Canal lock at the NC end, how far we have traveled from the Keys, and at the Welcome Center dock with S/V White Pepper.

Underway Saturday (19 July) up the Dismal Swamp Canal - an absolutely lovely trip with the dark tannic acid water reflecting everything on the water like a mirror. Each end of the canal(North Carolina and Virginia) has a lock and bridge operated by the lockmaster with the bridge lift coordinated with lock opening times. Both ends have places to tie-up or anchor to wait for lock/bridge openings.

Just a few miles south of the NC/VA border, is a North Carolina Welcome Center (off Route 17) with a free dock to overnight (water available under north end of dock). The Welcome Center has a boater's lounge, internet and 24-hour restrooms. The state park service operates the Dismal Swamp Visitor Center on the other side of the canal, accessed by a bridge (monitored and opens for boats in the canal), with nature lectures on weekends. There is also a paved bike/walking trail at the end of the parking lot for the Visitor Center. We traveled the canal with Karl and Jan Stein of S/V White Pepper (met at Elizabeth City docks).

After staying overnight in the canal, both vessels head to Virginia. At the quay wall before the Deep Creek bridge, we tied up and enjoyed lunch at the Mexican Restaurant right there awaiting a bridge opening. Propane is available at hardware store nearby. S/V White Pepper headed into the Deep Creek Lock, but the Star tied-up at the free town dock before the lock (part of a park) to overnight.

By Monday (21 July), we are locked out of the Canal, heading through Portsmouth, Norfolk, and out into the Chesapeake Bay. Our immediate destination is the York River (Sarah Creek, on the Glouscester Point side) to visit with Army friends (Dan Murray, Darlene May, Mike and Mary Wichterman). Thanks to each for grocery shopping, mail, engine oil and filter.

At the Deep Creek Bridge quay wall, tied-up at the town dock before the Deep Creek Lock, and the Navy at Portsmouth/Norfolk, Virginia.

On the way to the Dismal Swamp Canal Route

2008-07-18T17:39:00.001-07:00

Sunrise and sunset along the way to Elizabeth City.
WWII Blimp Hanger - largest wooden building in the world - and blimb outside Elizabeth City.

Doing the Intracoastal Waterway along North Carolina is a lovely trip with variations of canals, rivers and sounds to transit. Realizing Bobby announced we are underway again, the winds cease from the south and turn north, so we are nose into the wind for three days to Elizabeth City. Yes, motoring 8 hours/day for 3 days out in the sparsely populated country, so still no cellular service.

Wednesday night (16 July) our anchorage for the night was off the north end of the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal. Upon dropping the hook, wasps fly over deciding to nest in the sailcovers. Dinner preparation is underway while Bobby is dancing about the deck with a fly swatter waging war for more than an hour with insects. Carcasses loll about the deck while Jenny serves dinner, putting a temporary truce to the carnage. The final holdouts are vanquished the next morning.

In the Abermarle Sound, the ICW breaks into two routes. The west route heads to the Dismal Swamp Canal, and the east route stays inland from the coast. Both routes meet up south of the Portsmouth/Norfolk area of Virginia. We are heading up to the Dismal Swamp Canal (bordering North Carolina and Virginia).

We arrive at the Elizabeth City Mariner Wharf docks Thursday afternoon. This cruiser friendly town provides free 48-hour docks right downtown. They are very small, meaning you can only depart/board your boat by the bow (front of the boat, usually the pointy end). The Farm Fresh grocery store provides a free shuttle to and from the Wharf to their store. Most requirements are within a few blocks, to include a wonderful county museum. The Mariner Wharf is at a park with a Saturday market, free summer concerts and local welcomers. Jenny took a delightful historical walking tour, with another boat couple, that included local politics and government issues. The tour concluded with a high tea, all for only $15/person by De' Tours (Bonnie at 252-
435-5427).

Elizabeth City Mariner Wharf docks and Bonnie of De' Tours in front of the oldest brick house in town.

Stuck in the Shipyard

2008-07-14T16:54:00.000-07:00

Lifted out and living on the hard.

The Star was lifted out of the water 24 June at Core Creek Marine (252-728-7358) in the Jarrett Bay Industrial Park 5 miles north on the ICW from Beaufort. We were able to live on the boat in the yard as restrooms/showers were available. Wonderful yard, very quiet, security roaming throughout the night, hourly fees are cheaper than other places, and you can also work on your own boat. Summer is the downtime for repairs in this area, so it is a good time to get work done. The boat passed the Survey (periodic inspection required for insurance) with only one repair needed - remove one deck handrail and reset it due to slight moisture intrusion. After a week, the Star is back in the water at Jarrett Bay docks (where the lifts occur) and men are checking out the throttle while the engine is running and it is not going into forward - not that Jenny is not repeatedly mentioning the issue is probably the transmission, as it is like when your clutch goes out in a car (but, what would a woman know about mechanical stuff). Talk goes back and forth for 2-3 days about throttle vs. transmission until the final call is made - transmission (ah, vindicated again)

Now, it is another two weeks tied up at the Jarrett Bay Marine dock (252-728-2690) while parts are researched (do not make parts for our diesel engine or throttle anymore), ordered and installed. They also have restroom/shower facilities, security and it is also quiet living here considering all the activity during the day. We took care of other boat chores and read a lot of books over these last 3 weeks. Enterprise Car Rental in Morehead City even drove all the way out here to pick us up to rent a car and brought us back after the rental period completed. They are very friendly and dedicated.

On top of being out in the country in a huge boatyard complex with every boat manufacturing/ repair facility around us, we were at the edge of a cellular dead zone. Thus, being online and making phone calls required just the proper angle of projection from one spot on the boat at high tide.

Tomorrow morning (Tuesday) is a quick sea trail to ensure the transmission is operating correctly, then we are on are way once again.

Back in the water.

Mint Green is this Seaon's Color

2008-06-22T13:43:00.000-07:00

Noticing a trend along the ICW on the East Coast of the U.S., mint green appears to be the color for the upcoming season...

Beaufort, NC

2008-06-20T16:46:00.000-07:00

Porpoises playing off the bow

S/V Wanderin' Star amid mega yachts at Beaufort Docks, NC

So much for NOAA weather predictions during our offshore passage up the coast...initially the wind was not out of the east or southeast, then it was not enough to put out the sails. We got 10-15 knots downwind the last few hours into Beaufort with building seas to 6 feet. Lovely motoring for 55 hours with porpoises playing off the bow, and an arrival into Beaufort late Monday afternoon (16 June).

Jenny explores the blocks of historic homes (over 100 covering early 1700s to early 1900s) during her morning runs. The North Carolina Maritime Museum is great with a variety of exhibits and ship models. We also wandered through the Old Town Cemetery and stopped for refreshments at the Backstreet Pub. The Beaufort Docks marina has a courtesy car, so we cruised to a grocery store in a Buick Roadmaster station wagon with strips of headliner hanging down rather decoratively.

Jacqueline (know her family from Texas, Krossman) met us for dinner at Clawson's Tuesday night. Her husband, Art, (Marine) is in Afghanistan. Missed Michael's (her dad) visit to North Carolina on his motorcycle a week or so ago. Heard he was wearing his old flight helmet and got an offer of $300 for it (sounding a bit like the movie "Wild Hogs").

Time for a bit of history...Beaufort was established in 1709 (300 years next year) by the British as a seaport after the Coree Indians, then French Huguenots inhabited the area. Unfortunately, the nearby rivers did not extend very far inland, so this port remained small and isolated from the rest of the state. Pirate Blackbeard's (Edward Teach) flagship, Queen Anne's Revenge, has been found offshore and its artifacts are in the Maritime Museum. North Carolina was not a great slave state, thus it was the 2d to last state to join the Confederacy. During the Civil War, North Carolina's low enthusiasm for the war kept the state fairly untouched. The Union army had a presence in Beaufort and the surrounding area by 1862 with the locals continuing life pretty much as usual.

Monday (23d June), the Star is going into a boatyard at Core Creek. Time for a bottom paint job and a survey inspection (needed every 3 years for insurance).

First home/inn (1709) in Beaufort, NC (vessels once lined up on this home to get into port)

Captain Otway's grave (left with the cannon), famous in the War of 1812 with his vessel, Snapdragon - privateer issued a government note to serve under the new U.S. Navy

Walkway between buildings and a ghost haunting an attic

Another rough day for Bobby

Jekyll Island, Georgia

2008-06-13T18:48:00.000-07:00

Bobby feeding the fish off Cumberland Island, GA
Jekyll Island Club and one of the rustic millionaire's cottage, Jekyll Island, GA
A nanny's comments in a letter sent home about winter life on Jekyll Island

Before we left NAS Jacksonville, afternoon thunderstorms pushed us hard into the dock rubbing the rub rail across dock bolt heads. Part of the metal rail popped off. We spent Tuesday evening (10 Jun) finding a spot where a rivet was completely gone to place a holding screw to keep the metal rail against the rubrail. Unfortunately, we moved the boat back to this spot to allow another vessel use of the dock 2 days before. A cosmetic issue to fix when we lift the Star out for a bottom job and check the rudder post later this year.

The calm morning of the 11th we headed downriver on the St. John's back to the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) catching the ebb tide and making good time. By the afternoon, we are finally out of Florida and anchored off Cumberland Island, Georgia where we spent last Sunday.
Pulling out his fishing pole, Bobby feeds the fish...they get shrimp, and he hooks a baby shark he throws back. Consumption of dinner occurred earlier, as Jenny was not waiting on the hunter/gatherer to provide the daily sustenance.

From Cumberland Island, our next landfall is Jekyll Island Thursday and Friday. The ultra-rich Victorians (Morgan, Crane, Rockefeller, Pulizter, Goodyear, etc) established a hunting club in 1886 and it continued until 1942. Later, family mansions were built, some without kitchens, as everyone went to the club to eat meals served by well-known chefs of the era. All arrived by yacht to the private dock, except for Morgan, his yacht,the Corsair II, anchored out due to its length of 304 feet (required a crew of 70-80). In 1912, Morgan and others met here secretly to establish the Federal Reserve Banking System to prevent financial panics like the one in 1907 (among other reasons). The exclusive club was open 1 Jan - 31 Mar as a rustic winter country manor retreat. The Depression, income tax and WWII impacted the residents and the ability to get help (servants), so the club finally shut down. The State of Georgia bought the island and has spent years restoring the buildings (2 left), they also require 2/3ds of the island remain in its native state. The original club is now a 4-star hotel and rooms in most of the mansions are run by the hotel. Bike/jogging paths cover the island. The Civil War movie, "Glory", final battle scene attacking the Confederate fort on the beach was filmed here. The producers built a boardwalk to the beach.

We hiked to the historic district for the day and had a lovely lunch at the Crane Cottage. Relaxed by the pool at the marina in the late afternoon, and are now prepping the Star for a 2-day offshore passage from St. Simon's Sound to Morehead City/Beaufort, NC. Trying to get in some sailing and relief from the almost $5/gal diesel fuel prices.

Jenny by and Bobby in a live oak tree on the bike/jogging trail

Proof of temperatures in the mid-90s, Jekyll Island, GA

Cumberland Island, Georgia

2008-06-10T14:24:00.000-07:00

The ruins of the Vanderbilt "Dungeness" mansion and of the wooden Victorian Recreation House on Cumberland Island.

After spending Saturday doing chores - Bobby hanging over the engine and generator changing filters and oil, and Jenny provisioning (getting groceries and engine oil), we took a day off and went to Cumberland Island. Yes, we know it is on the ICW route, but our plan is to do Cumberland by land, stop over at Jekyll Island by boat, then head outside for another offshore passage. Trying to get up north to get out of the (early) 90 degree heat of summer in the south.

Cumberland Island is a National Park accessed by ferry from St. Mary's, Georgia (on the Florida
border). The ferry runs twice a day to and from the island allowing time to explore and spend time on the beach (may need reservations, so check park's website). Originally, Timucuan Indians lived here for 3,000 years. In the mid 1500s, Europeans invaded and a Spanish mission was established for 80 years. By 1736, the English under General Oglethorpe established forts at either end of the island, and after a failed attack in 1742, the Spanish ended attempts to invade English Georgia.

By the 1760s land grants became available, but Cumberland Island was not a real estate hot spot before the American Revolution. After the Revolution, General Nathaneal Greene acquired property on the island to raise indigo (blue dye) and harvest oak trees for the new U.S. Navy's ships. After his death, his remarried widow, Catherine, built a 4-story tabby mansion called Dungeness, in addition to creating a working plantation to pay off family debt. The mansion burned down around the mid 1800s. The gardener's cottage (a normal-sized home) is all that remains from this time.

In the mid-1800s, Thomas and Lucy Carnegie (younger brother of Andrew, family in steel) came to the island and built a huge sprawling mansion over the old ruins, and called their castle, Dungeness. Over time, Lucy purchases 90% of the island and builds four mansions for the married children (one is Greyfield, now an expensive hotel where celebrities stay for privacy). Only 200 people supported the Carnegie's life, so a small town with all that entails (power/ice plant, dorms, homes, huge carriage house/stable, recreation mansion with pool/barber and beauty shop/guest rooms/gym, laundry house, smoke house, commissary, 300' yacht with dock, machine and carpentry shops, etc) is constructed. After the 1920s, Dungeness use declined (due to the stock market crash, depression and income taxes) and the latest mansion burned down in 1959. Its ruins remain with some of the support facilities.

Bobby returned to the engine room to replace the ancient main engine water strainer yesterday. Today, we are enduring an afternoon thunderstorms at the dock after prepping for tomorrow's departure. It's back down the St. John's River towards the coast with a left turn onto the ICW for a couple of days.

View of the inland waterway and of the beach on Cumberland Island. No crowds.

Relaxing at NAS Jacksonville

2008-06-06T16:51:00.000-07:00

Entering Cape Canaveral Inlet with submarine exiting, warship entering and the launching pad at NASA for the space shuttle.

Tuesday, 2 Jun, we head inland to the ICW at Cape Canaveral Inlet due to catching the Gulf Stream offshore and flying for a good part of yesterday and last night. Neither of us sighted another boat all night. Rather impressive seeing the NASA launch pad and shuttle hanger as we entered the inlet. In addition, a Navy submarine was exiting the inlet as we approached and a naval warship went in ahead of us.

We locked through a small lock at the Port of Canaveral with a manatee. Bobby almost used it as a fender as we came in to tie-up. After dropping a whole 6 inches, the gates opened, and there is the manatee heading into the Banana River ahead of us. Not only did Bobby finally see his first real manatee after 7 months of being in manatee territory (no dear they are not a Floridian myth), we locked through with one.

Back onto the ICW (in this area it is the Indian River - big citrus growing area) and up to Titusville to overnight with porpoise and manatee sightings along the way.

Continuing up the ICW northbound on Wednesday, we pass New Smyrna Beach, Daytona Beach, and Flagler Beach on the Matanzas River. Our secluded anchorage for the night is at the north end of Flagler Beach up an old cement plant canal where a Sea Ray Boat Builder plant resides. The next day we pass Palm Coast and St. Augustine (oldest continuously occupied European settlement in the U.S., with a 1670's Spanish fort, Castillo San Marcos), and continue on to the St. John's River. Just off the river, across from Blount Island, we anchor off Little Marsh Island. Across the St. John's River, we see Fort Caroline, a French Huguenot fort from 1564 built to challange the Catholic Spanish to the south at St. Augustine. Shortly after establishing the fort, the French sail to attach St. Augustine, but a storm wrecks the fleet. The 500 survivors try to return overland to Fort Caroline, a fight ensues at Fort Matanzas (south of St. Augustine), and the Spanish kill the 334 who surrender. In Sep, 1565, the Spanish attack the 240 French remaining at Fort Caroline, as usual the French don't do well. Forty escapees flee to France and return with others 4 years later and destroy the now Spanish fort. So, there. And neither ended up with Florida.

Friday is a half day trip upriver to the Mulberry Cove Marina at NAS Jacksonville timed with slack and flood tide to catch the current going with us. Passing through downtown Jacksonville, police boats abound to keep all vessel traffic to the sides of the river due to test runs for Go Fast Boats prepping for a race on Saturday. We plan to spend 5 days here doing routine maintenance, sightseeing and relaxing. NAS Jacksonville is a very nice base, so of course Jenny's dad was never stationed here when she was a kid. With recent unusual temperatures in the 90s, we are appreciating the luxury of air conditioning at the dock.

Fort Matanzas where the French are slaughtered by the Spanish. Next is St. Augustine and the Castillo San Marcos, followed by French Fort Caroline on the St. John's River. Both Spanish forts are built of coquina masonry (tiny shells in the manmade stone, unlike the oyster shell tabby masonry).

Jacksonville is the home of Maxwell House Coffee - good to the last drop

Jenny's dedicated pedicab driver

Along the Waterway from Cape Canaveral to St. John's River

2008-06-05T19:39:00.000-07:00

Haulover Canal from Indian River to Mosquito Lagoon

Real life on the ICW approaching New Smyrna Beach and one of the numerous fishing camps

Palm Coast where all the boat docks match

Along the Matanzas River north of St. Augustine

Only Victorian on the ICW marked on the charts with "CUP" for the cuploa

Palm Valley Cut with homes/docks on the east side

New exclusive community with canals - most new homes along the waterway are huge and some aren't...

Miami Madness

2008-06-01T17:19:00.000-07:00

Bobby dreaming of trading the Wanderin' Star for the old African Queen.
Jenny and Bobby at the No Name Pub on Big Pine Key (note the $1 bills all over), and the only alligators in The Keys are at the Blue Hole on Big Pine Key

Our Marathon/Vaca Key departure was Friday (30 May). Concerned about weather predictions of thunderstorms until then, we rented a car for two days. First time for Bobby driving The Keys up to Islamorada, Windley Key for the Fossil State Park (old coral rock quarry), and Key Largo, then went down to Big Pine Key to the Key Deer Refuge and the Exchange at NAS Key West (Sisgbee Island). Lovely scenery and water color variations along the way.

Friday got us to Plantation Key and Cowpens Anchorage. Please watch the west end of this anchorage as there are 3 shoaled sections extending into the area quite a bit. Not on any chart. Recommend heading up the ICW and coming in on the markers to the marina. Yes, we grounded on the outside one, had to be towed off, and only got a warning from the Park Rangers (even through no one has updated any charts or marked the area) after they inspected the boat and ensured Bobby had no outstanding warrants. TowBoat US knows this area well, as they frequent it a lot - we were by no means the first to go aground here. The rangers are concerned more with power boaters as they will try to power off, so the props wash out an area of sand and seagrass, causing more damage (this ensures a hefty fine).

To replenish seagrass areas, pea gravel is laid on the bottom, plugs of grass planted, and numerous white stakes are place throughout the area for birds to roost on. The bird poop provides nourishment for the seagrass, and voila.

Yesterday (Sat, 31 May), we anchored off the NW end of Elliot Key. This is where Charlotte ("Charlotte's Story") and her husband lived (1933-35) until the Labor Day Hurricane of '35. They combed the beach for their needs, fished and caught conch, and maintained a lime orchard for the owner of the property where they stayed for free. Incredibly, they survived the hurricane - most did not. The Miami skyline glowed in the distance and hoards of daytripping power boats clustered at every anchorage and shoal (most depart in the evening).

After refueling at Crane Park Marina (1 hour away at the north end of Key Biscayne), we arrived early this afternoon to No Name Marina (at the south end) after surviving the gaunlet of fast boats going everywhere and throwing up huge wakes off Key Biscayne. For the remainder of the day, boats of all lengths and size arrive in the harbor, people swim off the stern, and depart. The anchoring process, music and thong bikinis provided the entertainment. By evening, I drag Bobby out for a walk along the water overlooking Stiltsville (homes built over the water, only 7 left, now owned by the park) in the channel. The original Stiltsville started due to people not wanting to pay property taxes (I not be remembering this correctly), storms and poor upkeep took out most of the homes (not allowed to rebuild) Get back to land and pay taxes like everyone else - big brother decrees.

The Star heads out the Cape Florida Channel to the Atlantic for an overnight offshore passage
to Fort Pierce, or beyond, tomorrow. There is a 54' fixed bridge our main mast will not fit under in Miami and far too many bridges at frequent intervals requiring a lift for us to pass in Southern Florida along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).

Birds providing nutrients for a new seagrass bed.

Miami north of Key Biscayne, and a view in No Name Harbor.

Stiltsville as we head out of Cape Florida Channel.

Photos of the Inside (ICW) Route of the Upper Keys

2008-05-31T18:31:00.000-07:00

Birds on stakes providing nutrients for new seagrass beds
Going though one of the cuts
Homes along Florida Bayside
Another cut passage

Marooned in Marathon, but Chillin'

2008-05-26T12:46:00.000-07:00

The double thunderstorm wind (41 kts) and rain whipping through Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, The Keys, Florida.

Bobby was slung over the diesel engine and generator in the engine room installing the compressor for the new refrigeration system while Jenny was upside down with legs in the air inside the top loading refer box reinstalling the extra insulation and spraying foam. The old ice box is chilling down and ready to go once again. Except now the weather is not being cooperative - two thunderstorms went through yesterday afternoon and the wind is still up today, so departure is delayed until Wednesday for calmer seas.

Our plan now is to head up the East Coast of the US for the summer and return South as it gets cold. Tom and Sandy of S/V Magic Reunion are still in Palmetto, FL. We decided not to head to the Abacos Islands, Bahamas to meet up with the Texas Cruiser's Association this week (they are chartering), as we only know one couple from the marina in Texas and would only be able to stay about 3 weeks. Tom belonged to the Association for years. The Caribbean will wait for us until this winter.

Another Marathon "character" spotting at the Dockside Bar last week. Unfortunately, no camera available for documentation. She was perched in the lap of her date...he did not appear to really care even though it was in the upper 80s, very humid, and the bar is not air conditioned. Although the "date" was dressed conservatively in kahki shorts, polo shirt, socks and shoes, the "character" had on a white lace see-thru blouse, red bra, and a cut-off jean studded mini-skirt. So what's the big deal, you ask? They looked to be in their 80s! Got the impression she might be a biker chick from way back, although I did not see any tatoos through the blouse.

At least the sunsets are lovely to look here in Boot Key Harbor.

Back in Marathon

2008-05-17T07:26:00.000-07:00

Channel entrance to Boot Key Harbor/Marathon and bascule bridge. Frank and Lisa on M/V Gnatnoop arriving to mooring field.

The new reefer system is ordered and we will spend another week in Marathon awaiting its delivery. We are managing by putting a layer of highly technical boat insulation (car sun shade) on top of the freezer box for the refer items. Being creative and adaptive is a major requirement for peaceful living aboard.

At least most of the really weird "characters" at the City Marina departed, which decreases the entertainment value, in addition to the waiting lines for showers and laundry. Bobby had no worries about losing Jenny to some boat guy here, as these guys are on the edge of just about everything. Now, when we sail through Palm Beach and Fort Lauderdale, it might be a different story (if she can get past the nautical outfits).

Lisa and Frank (M/V Gnatnoop) spent a few days in Marathon this last week moored next to us. We discovered $1 taco Tuesdays at the Hurricane with Happy Hour drink prices making for a pleasant evening (specials start after 1800 or 6pm, so don't bother getting there earlier).

Today, we had a private tour (only because we were the only ones) of Pigeon Key. Pigeon Key is 2 miles off Marathon/Vaca Key. It was used as a construction camp when Henry Flagler (partner in Standard Oil with John Rockefeller) was building a railroad down the East Coast of Florida and all the way to Key West in the early 1900s. A brilliant man with the vision to bring people to this American wilderness. He would bring the railroad so far, build a huge, luxury hotel and then add all the power, water, government buildings, etc required to support the hotel and the town he built next to it. Of course, he knew he could get rich folks up North to come to the tropical South for the winter. Thus, the start of most cities along Florida's East Coast and the homes of the wealthy predominately in these areas.

Now, the part about taking the railroad from Miami to Key West was about business. Key West is the closest US port to Cuba and the Caribbean. Ships coming into Key West could offload after a short run and the Flagler railroad would bring the cargo up north. Not only did Henry Flagler use his own money to finance all of this, he oversaw most of the details. How would the East Coast of Florida look today without the impact of Henry Flagler?

The Labor Day Hurricane of 1935 wiped out portions of the railroad (this storm has the lowest barometric pressure reading recorded of any storm in the world, ever), the state bought the railroad line and made it into US1 (opened in 1938). Pigeon Key's historical buildings are restored and mainly used as a marine camp for kids. You can walk the 2.2 miles along the old roadway/rail bridge to the island or take a boat from the visitor center. There is also a movie about Henry Flagler and a museum on the island. By 1982, the new US1 was completed, with the Seven-Bridge over the ocean, starting at Marathon/Vaca Key and ending at Bahia Honda Key. This was the bridge during the car/helicopter chase scene towards the end of the movie "True Lies".

Hydration stops were undertaken as we walked the few miles back to the City Marina following the Pigeon Key tour. From the various "Tiki Hut" bars bayside (Florida Bay side of the island), we watched the high speed drag boats warming up for tomorrow's race (bayside, through the old/new bridges to oceanside, and back). Then, another colorful sunset and the rising of a full moon.

Jenny and Bobby on old railroad/US1 with new highway/Seven-Mile Bridge to the left. Historic home on Pigeon Key.

Newfound Harbor, Big Pine Key

2008-05-11T07:11:00.000-07:00

Onward back up the Keys - anchored off Big Pine Key up to the end of Newfound Harbor to be close a dinghy landing late this afternoon. We were settled in and making sure the anchor was fully set due to the amount of wind, when a man passed by in his dinghy and informed us we would have to move. Turns out we had to retreat to the previous channel marker to anchor. No masted vessels could be up the harbor that far, due to a sailboat drifting into the power lines next to the US1 bridge last year and taking out the power to 2 islands. So, that took all of 10-15 mins. But, now we were pretty far from the dinghy landing with choppy water inbetween. Not wanting to get soaked going into land and back, we nixxed our plans to tour the island.

Just off Hawk Channel, at the entrance to Newfound Harbor, is Little Palm Island (also known as Munson Key on the charts). A luxury resort, resembling a Fijian island, now resides where the movie "PT 109" (boat President John F. Kennedy was assigned to in the Navy) was filmed. Even lowly cruisers may dine at the gourmet restaurant and leave our dinghies at the dock, if we have made reservations.

Tomorrow, we will be back on a mooring ball in Marathon waiting the delivery of a new refrigeration system.

Resort on Little Palm Island

Key West

2008-05-10T06:32:00.000-07:00

Local street entertainment in Key West and Bobby's new ride.

Bobby put on coveralls (finally - no greased up clothes and bloody nicks all over his arms) and got the generator heat exchanger cleaned out and reinstalled this week. Lots of water running through it now, so no issue of overheating anymore. Jenny cut up a disposed of sail (dumpster diving treasure) to make rain covers for the fore and aft hatches, along with 2 storage bags for under the seats in the dinghy.

Went into Key West today and met up with Frank and Lisa of M/V Gnatnoop and Tom and Susan of M/V Remedy. All of us spent time at Regatta Pointe Marina in Palmetto, Florida. The day was a continuation of Susan's 50th birthday week - we sampled a few bars and enjoyed the entertainment inside and out on the streets. We are all wondering about Bobby... he was promised a free lap dance by a male shill in front of a club while the shill slowly pressed a pamphlet into Bobby's hand. Okay, it is the start of the summer off-season, but there seemed to be plenty of people about, so how could they be that desperate?!

After one of the band's acts, concerning the need for more troops to fight terrorism, whenever I hear the "Green Berets" sung, these words will go through my head:
Silver crosses upon their chests
These brave nuns are the Vatican's best...
Fighting saints from the convent
Wearing the black habit

Bobby and Frank at the bar while Susan, Lisa, and Tom ensure the Hogsbreath Saloon remains standing.

Boca Chica and Key West NAS

2008-05-03T18:47:00.000-07:00

Seven Mile Bridge from Marathon (Vaca Key) to Bahia Honda Key. Sunrise at Key West NAS, Boca Chica Marina.

Yesterday, the wind dropped, so we departed Marathon and headed to Boca Chica Key. The Star is spending 5 days at the Key West Naval Air Station Marina. Not enough water is passing through the generator, so we need to be hooked up to shore power while performing the required maintenance. In addition, the old reefer compressor is giving out, so we are working on ordering a new one.

Jenny's Dad was stationed at Key West in the early 1950s. The airfield is larger and a few more buildings litter the landscape now. With the clear water, we are watching large tarpon, needlefish, and other sealife from the dock.

Taking advantage of the dockside power, Jenny is sewing jib sheet bags and a cover (including an Eisenglass window) for the cockpit navigation monitor. Happy Hour at the Navigator's Grill is Bobby's hangout for $1 beers. Oh yes, it's still sunny and warm everyday!

Captain Ron is stopping over here also!

The Sea Turtle Hospital

2008-04-30T17:42:00.000-07:00

Bobby listening to the tour guide and shell damage done by a boat prop.

Bobby consented to walk down highway US1 with me to the very first Sea Turtle Hospital. It was started in 1976, when the owner of mint green, single story, cinder block 1940s motel wanted to add a sea turtle to the motel's saltwater pool, as it had only fish in it. The only way to do this was to find a turtle requiring rehabilitation. Easy enough. And thus, the Turtle Hospital and Rehabilitation Center started operations. Until Hurricane Wilma (2004), the motel

supported the hospital. Now, staff live in the rooms and the hospital operates on donations.

Over the years, this hospital led the way in sea turtle rehabilitation, and personnel trained here have begun other hospitals across the country. Each turtle brought in is X-rayed, treated as appropriate (surgery is even performed) and released once rehabilitated.

Trash deposited or blown into the ocean is the leading cause of problems for the sea turtles. The turtles get impacted intestines from eating plastic, styrofoam and etc. they are unable to digest. This also causes air to get trapped in the intestines, so they float on the surface, unable to dive and eat. Simply feed them Metamucil and mineral oil daily until the impaction passes.

Being hit by a boat causes air to be trapped under the shell. This trapped air eventually pushes up a portion of the shell - a condition known as bubble butt. At this time, the air is unable to be removed, so these turtles remain permanently at the Center (as they are unable to dive for food). Or the boat prop may cut into the shell.

Flippers amputations are common mainly due to fishing line, and the turtle is able to function quite well with three flippers. Noncancerous tumors, especially around the turtles eyes, are removed by laser. The turtle rehabs for a year after the last tumors are removed. This condition is still being studied as it appears to be a communicable virus.

Occasionally, hatchlings are seen traveling in circles instead of heading for the water from the beach. This is a neurological problem that slowly resolves itself if the turtle is brought in for rehabilitation.

All in all, an incredible idea started because someone owned a motel with a saltwater pool.

urtle with bubble butt and a hatchling with neurological problems.

On a Mooring Ball in Marathon

2008-04-29T05:16:00.000-07:00

The Hammock of Crane Nature Center and an iguana feasting on flowers.

The Star is still swinging on a mooring ball in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon. We are waiting to see if Tom and Sandy Campbell of S/V Magic Reunion will be able to catch up with us to continue on to the Bahamas.

We have been occupied with maintenance chores, and Jenny did a quick jib sail and jib cover repair. The City Marina is somewhat in the center of things, so it is only a 1-1 1/2 mile walk to anything we need to get or do.

Sunday, Chris and Robin Blair of S/V Toucan Dream (new 42' Manta Catamaran which just splashed in the water on the 25th) had lunch with us on their way back to Sarasota after a weekend in Key West for the Manta Rendezvous. They are excited to be in the last month of rigging and other final touches of their new vessel.

Off we hiked to the Crane Museum and Nature Center yesterday. It is on a point with a natural hammock of tropical hardwood and mangroves. The center has a wild bird center to rescue, rehabilitate and release native birds. Nice to see an area of the Keys in its natural state without being cleared for housing or condo development.

The only manatee we've seen is painted on this wall by Wyland.

Made it to The Florida Keys

2008-04-25T19:41:00.000-07:00

Moser Channel under US1/Seven-Mile Bridge

Last night we made the decision to head the shorter distance to Marathon (Vaca/Boot Key) instead of the long haul to Key West, due to yesterday's maintenance issues.

With Cape Sable disappearing from view to the east (the southern end of the Florida mainland), the Star dodged frequent crab pot lines across the shallow Florida Bay. Be aware that these lines are all along Florida's West Coast, but more so in Florida Bay.

Two miles west of Marathon, is the Moser Channel. It runs under the 7-mile bridge (65' vertical clearance) and is one of the few places where you can cross from the Gulf side to the Atlantic side of the Keys with a masted vessel. Under we go, swing east to moor in the narrow and very crowded Boot Key Harbor off Marathon. Cocktails at sunset while neighbors blow conch shells. We plan to remain here for a few days.

Into the Ten Thousand Islands of the Everglades

2008-04-24T19:03:00.000-07:00

Entering Indian Key Pass, Ten Thousand Islands and Sunset at Russell Pass

As Jenny ran through a canal housing area east of the Marco River Marina, she discovered empty lots with marked burrowing owl burrows complete with pairs of owls standing outside. The owls are protected, but that won't protect them from homes eventually being built over their homes.

We left Marco on Wednesday for the Ten Thousand Islands area of the Everglades National Park. First, we had to go around Cape Romano and its shoals (about a 20 mile U-turn). Second, the Coast Guard boarded us off the Cape to conduct an inspection. Five Coast Guardsmen pull along side in a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) from the USCG Cutter Marlin, and 4 boarded fully bulked out in kevlar vests with utility belt (including weapons). Bobby sat squished with 3 of them in the cockpit recalling his days in the Coast Guard (many, many moons ago) while Jenny was below doing the work - bringing out the vessel paperwork book, IDs; and showing 1 Coast Guardsman fire extinguishers, flares, locked head Y-valves (proof you are not discharging sewage overboard when using the head), and oil/garbage placards. Anyway, we passed...good thing Jenny remembered to have Bobby buy new flares before we left!

Heading into Indian Key Pass in Ten Thousand Islands, we turned port into an anchorage in Russell Pass. Going to starboard, staying in Indian Key Pass, would take you to Everglades City. A very quiet spot we shared with a sailboat from Canada and a powerboat.

Today (Thursday), is Bobby's 55th birthday. Another wonderful day underway, despite the voltage regulator requiring adjustment and a mounting bolt coming off the alternator. Hey, Bobby got to save the day twice, and on his birthday even (my hero). At anchor in the Little Shark River at the south end of Ten Thousand Islands, we sipped cocktails, enjoyed crab dip for an appetizer, and dined on crab salad on toasted English muffins with melted cheese on top. Yummo. A few more boats anchored here, but still peaceful with another night full of stars above.

Evening at Little Shark River

Marco Island, Florida

2008-04-22T16:53:00.000-07:00

Marco Island is a laid-back place, to spend 2 days doing chores, with homes/condos on numerous canals. It is also the northern-most and largest island of the Ten Thousland Islands of the Everglades. Bobby's 55th birthday present is the new dinghy outboard purchased here.

We are at the Marco River Marina, complete with store, service/parts department, and most everything needed within walking distance, including 2 ice cream stores. The entrance into Marco River from Capri Pass is a bit tricky. Stay to markers starboard (there is shoal area in center and submerged island to the south at the entrance to the river), as the other set of markers to port deal with the old ICW. Directions are available online at http://www.marcoriver.com/.

Someone's Dream Ended

Useppa Island to San Carlos Bay, Fort Meyers Beach

2008-04-20T03:48:00.000-07:00

S/V Magic Reunion heading back to Regatta Pointe Marina and Osprey Nest

Unfortunately, S/V Magic Reunion decided to return to Regatta Pointe Marina (their home port) on the Manatee River due to generator, water maker and outboard engine issues. Tom and Sandy plan to do repairs in a week and catch up with us.

As for us, we continued to thread through the islands down the GIWW to it's end. At mile 0.0, the Okeechobee Waterway (to the Florida's East Coast), the GIWW and a channel from the Gulf of Mexico all converge. Lots of vessel traffic, which in Florida means lots of fast power boats leaving behind big wakes and the Star rocking. Once out of the channel, we anchored in San Carlos Bay in the Gulf of Mexico near Fort Meyers Beach as the weather was calm. A lovely evening sunset with the whole bay to ourselves, and under a full moon for the night.

The Sanibel-Punta Rassa Bascule Bridge "A" on the channel leading out to the Gulf is now a 70' vertical clearance bridge. So, update your charts and guides.

Full moon over Sanibel Island from San Carlos Bay

Venice to Useppa Island, Florida

2008-04-19T12:52:00.000-07:00

Jenny was up Friday morning to go running alone, as Tom was not up for a walk (due to oysters and copious amounts of alcohol last night), while Bobby prepped for departure (he only had beer after arriving in Venice).

Not much success at sailing, as we continue on to Boca Grande Pass, as the wind was too much on the nose. Boca Grande is an area of the very rich and famous. As we head inland to the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) from outside, the majority of vessels are big and expensive or smaller fishing boats. Our anchorage for 2 days is off Useppa Island and just across from Cabbage Key. Useppa is a private island accessible only by boat if you are a club member. The homes are bigger than most of us live in full time. But, for a mere $10/couple, you may be allowed to step ashore for the privledge of spending another $10 to visit the island's museum.

Tom and Bobby have spent the day diligently working on outboard motors for the dinghies. Okay, the guys did have them worked on in the last 5 months, but neither one was recently tried out prior to departure. Ours has cracks with accompanying corrosion that deem it junk, so at our next major stop, we will be shopping for an outboard. Thankfully, our dinghy only can handle a 3hp, so not so expensive. As for Sandy and myself - we have been watching the birds, enjoying the view and reading - living the life of the rich and famous. Ta ta.

S/V Betty Boop off private Useppa Island and Sunset over Cabbage Key

Underway Again!

2008-04-17T12:20:00.000-07:00

Departing Regatta Pointe Marina, Palmetto, Florida

It only took us 5 months to clear out of Palmetto, Florida (Regatta Pointe Marina) and head back up the Manatee River for the Gulf of Mexico. Of course, we are leaving behind new friends that we hope to see again out on the water. We are traveling south to Key West and onto the Abacos Islands in the Bahamas with Tom and Sandy Campbell of S/V Magic Reunion.

The liferaft process was finally completed mid-Jan. Bobby decided to fix the leak around the manual bilge pump thru-hull in Feb. First he took out the thru-hull (after creating a tool to be able to unscrew the 2 parts from each other) and the old backing plate. Then he immediately inserted a bung in the hole (hence - a bunghole at the back/stern/butt of the boat) to prevent us from sinking. After cutting out a new backing plate, he replaced everything in reverse with plenty of sealant. Good to go.

Alan and Susan Symes of M/V Kaos stopped at Regatta Pointe Marina for a month. They departed the marina in Texas shortly after we arrived to liveaboard the Star.

By now, it's time for spring skiing in March. We drop off Burt (the cat) in Houston with Bill and Janet Galyean, then head up to Washington to see Jenny's nephew, Paden, during his spring break from WSU, and ski the sunny days in Mission Ridge and Steven's Pass. Once back in Florida, it is time to reprovision, do laundry and last minute chores before heading out.

With Chris and Robin Blair sailing for the day on Magic Reunion. Our 2 boats headed out today for the Crow's Nest Marina and Restaurant in Venice. Once there, we met up with Troy and Betty (once another Texas marina couple) on S/V Betty Boop to consume close to 8 dozen oysters and copious amounts of fluids while in very close proximity in the restaurant's small tavern. A few more drinks onboard, made for an early night for all.

Skiing in Washington - Mission Ridge - memorial to WWII plane crash

As Usual, Bobby is Still #1 on the LIst

2007-12-09T10:16:00.000-08:00

Once again, Bobby is still #1 on a company's work priority list. This time it's for recertifying the liferaft. Due to receiving a large commercial job, the estimate of work may be completed by 10 Dec, with another 2 weeks to complete the recertification. For those of you not familiar with getting projects completed in the marine field, this is a common occurrence. You just don't plan on having anything done in short order. Anyway, where we will be for Christmas appears to be determined.

Where are we? At the Regatta Pointe Marina located off the historic district of Palmetto on the north shore of the Manatee River, across from Bradenton, in the lower Tampa Bay area, on the west coast of Florida. The marina is building new bathrooms, a laundry room and an exercise room (completion Mar '08). We get a free paper and bag of ice everyday, and have pump-outs at each slip. Within walking distance are restaurants, stores, and the laundromat. Our needs are met, but life isn't as social here as at Watergate Yachting Center in Texas. There we had grass right off the dock, and picnic shelters with grills. After work, and over the weekends, neighboring boat folks would gather to cook their supper and eat together.

The holiday spirit takes a slightly different form here. Last Tuesday, a large powerboat owner put a blow-up Frosty on the very top deck of his boat. As it was during the day, he decided not to inflate it, but the wind did, partially. Frosty was bent over mooning everyone in the marina for the day! Unfortunately, Jenny was unable to document the event before the owner returned from work to inflate the snowman permanently for the season. Please note the photo of Santa in the sleigh with flamingo reindeer...yes, it's a different holiday season in Florida.

Thanksgiving in Florida

2007-11-22T13:28:00.000-08:00

Forces combined for Thanksgiving dinner at Chris and Robin's condo in Sarasota. Jenny made 2 pumpkin pies, sweet potato muffins and a zucchini casserole. Sandy contributed a lemon meringue pie, stuffing and cranberry sauce, while Robin did the turkey, another stuffing and mashed potatoes. Oh yes, the guys did football on the TV. We ended the day as stuffed as the turkey was before the meal. Yummo!

Our liferaft was delivered to Tampa for recertification on Tuesday with a 2 week wait for an estimate. Hmmm...sounds as if Bobby is #1 on their list. Tom bets we will be here into the New Year.

Crossing the Gulf of Mexico

2007-11-18T09:04:00.000-08:00

Bobby, Jenny, and her parents

We spent the 11 days at Holiday Harbor Marina at Perdido Key, Florida before heading across the Gulf of Mexico on a 50 hour passage.

Jenny's dad gave all of us a thorough tour of the Naval Aviation Museum at NAS Pensacola. He has flown over half the planes (multi-engine, prop and jets) in the museum, and landed/took-off from straight-deck and angled-deck carriers during his career. Just his luck of being in the Navy after WWII through the Vietnam War. Lots of information we never would have gotten from the museum tour guide. Thanks Dad!

Alan Syme of M/V Kaos came over from Mobile, Alabama to dine with all of us (a Watergate reunion) our last night at Peridido Key. He and Susann finished doing the Great Circle, and are ready to explore Florida.

Anyway, back to crossing the Gulf...the passage was mild with very little wind to sail. We pulled watches, enjoyed sunrises and sunsets, evaded fishing boats, and the "Magic Reunion caught bonita and mahi mahi. Burt (the cat) kept us company in the cockpit through the night watches curled up in our laps (secretly sucking the body heat from our bodies). Halfway across, we let Buddy's ashes go; he was a wonderful dog and companion for 14 years.

Bobby spent Saturday putting layers of Life Chaulk over leaks around the manual bilge backing plate at the stern thru-hull. No, he did not save our lives by keeping the "Star" from sinking, but he did wrestle the full-size Temperpedic mattress in the aft cabin to get to the leak. The auto bilge pump handled the seeping water from each wave. We will have to do a day haul-out to correctly mend the defect.

We arrived this morning to Regatta Pointe Marina up the Manatee River at Palmetto, Florida with Robin and Sandy greeting us at the fuel dock. Tom and Sandy (S/V Magic Reunion) will stay here at least a year with plans to explore the Tampa Bay area. Robin and Chris are waiting for their new catamaran (S/V Toucan Dream) to be completed in Sarasota. We will be here 3 weeks to a month to recertify our liferaft and do small chores and maintenance, as usual.

End of First Leg at Pensacola, Florida

2007-11-05T07:35:00.000-08:00

Bill and Bobby

Within 2.5 hours, we are tied-up at Holiday Harbor Marina (first marina in Florida on the GIWW, and the first with water, fuel, electricity and a pump-out since we left Clear Lake, Texas). Bill Davis manages the place, and is a retired Army buddy of ours.

Jenny's parents are arriving Tuesday to attend at VA-25 Squadron Reunion at the Pensacola Naval Air Station this coming weekend. Another reason we are stopping over here.

Chris and Robin head out by car to return to the Sarasota as they have friends coming in for a visit. Chris will return o/a 13 Nov. Then we will head offshore to cross the Gulf of Mexico to Sarasota, Florida.

Burt (the cat) is enjoying being off the leash and free to come and go as he pleases.

Recommendations and considerations for the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway:
1. AIS was very valuable to see tows/ships and their names for contact on the VHF to arrange passing.

2. Most of the GIWW is narrow with no place to anchor out of the way if you have trouble. Traveling with another vessel provides the opportunity of a hip-tow to keep moving while the issue is worked out. Especially between Houston and New Orleans.

3. Have a 50 amp/250 volt splitter for shore power connections on the GIWW. Most docks and marinas are set up for this connector.

4. Even during the day, it helps to have 2 people on watch. Would only recommend traveling during daylight. Plan your day hops to anchor out or dock at night.

5. Fuel sources are still sparse, and pump-out stations are rare.

6. Skipper Bob's "Cruising the Gulf Coast" is the best guide for the GIWW.

Biloxi, Mississippi to Gulf Shores, Alabama

2007-11-04T07:13:00.000-08:00

Departure time is 0548 to make as much use of the daylight as possible today. Sandy and Robin will drive to Pensacola, FL to wait for our arrival there. We head out the Biloxi Ship Channel and back into the GIWW. Up go the mainsails on both vessels, but not really any wind to help push us along. By mid-morning we have crossed into Alabama.

As we pass Dauphin Island off our starboard side, we notice the middle section is now underwater due to Hurricane Katrina (2005). Once we pass under the island's fixed bridge, we are in shallow Mobile Bay. The current and wind are moving in the same direction, so we only have small chop as we cross it's 23 mile width.

The scenery really changes once we leave Mobile Bay and enter Portage Creek. Cypress trees return to the banks and the water is clear but brown due to the tannic acid. This is the start of the GIWW where you can explore and gunkhole.

Our stop for the night is the marina right next to Lulu's restaurant (she is Jimmy Buffet's sister). Robin and Sandy make the 30 min drive over from Pensacola for drinks and dinner at Lulu's.

Biloxi, Mississippi

2007-11-03T06:46:00.000-07:00

Shortly after pulling up anchor at Rabbit Island, we are motoring across the Mississippi Sound leaving Louisiana in our wake on our way to Biloxi, MS. Not enough wind to sail or motorsail. Chris plans the route cutting the corners of the GIWW track through the Sound to save time. We also have Monarch butterflies flying about us all day. Arrival at the Point Cadet Marina fuel dock is early afternoon, where we find Sandy and Robin have just made it by car themselves.

This is the first area we see the impact of Hurricane Katrina (2005). Vegetation has recovered, just about all the wreckage has been removed, but most marinas are closed, offices are in trailers, and there are quite a few gaps between building and homes.

Dinner is in Ocean Springs at a fantastic pizza place called the Mellow Mushroom. Chris is so insistent it was once called Moe's Mushroom he asks the wait staff if they changed the name recently, while Sandy and Jenny are reading the back of the menu that states 3 college buddies started the Mellow Mushroom back in 1974 - Chris, you are just wrong!

Tonight, we fall asleep to the snapping and popping sounds coming through the hull of oysters feeding. And yes, we remembered set the clock back for daylight savings time.

New Orleans to Rabbit Island

2007-11-02T20:03:00.001-07:00

Locking through the "nice" Harvey Locks

A later start this morning as the bridge before the Harvey Locks doesn't open until 0830. We are under it at 0835, and easily in and out of the locks.

Now, we flying down Mississippi River with the current, and crossing over to the New Orleans side to hug the bank. An oil tanker overtakes us, leaving huge eddies swirling into whirlpools just feet off our starboard side that thankfully we are not sucked into.

Turning to port into the Inner Harbor Industrial Canal, we are told to tie-up to the right outside of the locks until the barge coming out clears the locks. Just after "Magic Reunion" ties-up in this small, shallow area and the "Star" rafts up to her, we are cleared to move into the Industrial Locks. So, now we have to wait for the barge to pass as the water is being sucked out from under us by the tug and pulling us into the dock. Then we have to turn around or back out of this small area one boat at a time with our heavy displacement boats with small engines and props (meaning this doesn't happen very quickly). Meanwhile, the lock officials are barking at us that the bridge right in front of the locks isn't going to stay up all day (they are use to commercial vessels with dual props and large engines that can move about quickly).

Once the "Star" enters the locks, Jenny wants to take the line on the bow first due to the tug in front of us creating backwash that will push our bow out into the middle of the locks. But no, the official dropping the line knows better and yells "stern first". Okay, we'll comply as you are giving us the lines, so back to the stern, get the line, and sure enough, there goes the bow. The official throws the line short and before Bobby is up at the bow to try and reach for it. The bow drifts out to the middle even more, but we are able to get the line on the 2d toss. Now the knowledgable official spouts off with how it's obvious we don't know what we are doing and that's why we couldn't even get the boats into the locks quickly to begin with. Then he proceeds back to "Magic Reunion" and yells "bow" as he drops their first line. Interesting... The line dropped to the stern is too short, so Tom finally ties his line into the lock line. Now Mr. Knowledgeable officical is back to explain in very simple terms that we will be lowered 2 feet, that's down, 2 feet down and you will need to let the line out. Yes, thank you, got that the first time.

But the Industrial Locks passage is not over, oh no. Upon exiting, we are told to tie-up to the pilings to starboard to await the next 2 bridges opening for our masts to clear. "Magic Reunion" rafts up and we spend over an hour constantly moving the fore and aft fenders between boat and pilings due to the lock backwash, prop wash and wake from other boats, and the current bouncing us all over the place. It is with glad hearts we depart the locks area when a bridge operator finally arrives to lift the first bridge.

By early afternoon, we are back into the GIWW. It is peaceful and there are fewer tows to deal with on this (east) side of New Orleans. Our destination is the east side of Rabbit Island to anchor for the night. It is easy to spot with a oil platform wreck at the west entrance and a long RR trestle bridge nearby to the east. Here we get quite a few flies inside the boats until we close up the companionways. Another lovely sunset and a nice anchorage.

New Orleans to our stern as we head to the hell of the Industrial Locks.

Houma to Boomtown Casino

2007-11-01T19:24:00.000-07:00

It seems very strange to leave Troy standing on the dock as we depart this morning. We've enjoyed his company and listening to him play the guitar immensely. A rental car company is picking him up. He is driving back to Houston due to prearranged plans for the upcoming weekend, and maybe because Deana misses him a bunch. We make calls to confirm Troy got the rental car and made it back to his boat at Watergate.

Today, the waterway contains lots of water hyacinths and we spot a dolphin.

Tonight's tie-up is a Chris' Classy Cruising Dock Spot. It is free, and it should be. It is on a old metal wall with torn cables sticking out, on the south side of the intracoastal and next to the Boomtown Casino (1.5 miles west of the Harvey Locks). We are not bounced around by passing tows and it is fairly quiet. Just climb over the sand-filled fabric/wire box flood wall to let the casino security know you are docked outside, enjoy a meal inside and try your luck. Strategically, there is nothing closer to get you through New Orleans and the locks early the following day.

Halloween in Houma, Louisiana

2007-10-31T18:49:00.000-07:00

The Bayou Boeuf Locks just east of Morgan City require us to circle around for 40 mins before we can head through. Once on the other side, the vegetation changes to cypress swamp making it more interesting to watch the miles go by. A bald eagle is sighted in a tree on the north bank and Monarch butterflies flit about the boats. All along the GIWW, we are seeing cranes, herons, pelicans, terns and gulls.

As the days pass, Tom and Chris (especially) are growing concerned that passing boats do not think the two of them are an item. Now, you have to keep in mind the name of the vessel they are on ("Magic Reunion") to see where there might be some reason for the paranoia. When a passing tug Captain asks Tom if we are heading to New Orleans. Tom replies, "We're headed to Florida to catch our women". And just what kind of bait (snare, trap or lure) do you use, I wonder?!?

Within 2 miles of reaching the Houma City Dock, we have a bridge raise to pass under and then spend 1 hour and 45 mins circling off to the side near a smaller bridge in an intersection while three 6-pack tows (tugs pushing 3 barges, 2 deep) heading west clear the narrow canal here and wait for the bridge. One tug Captain comments on how it's been a very long time since he's seen this intersection so congested. And aren't we glad to have not missed it!

Houma's Municipal Dock on Bayou Terrebone is right between the twin bridges. It is also a small park. We keep to the intracoastal end of the wall to tie-up as it gets shallow quickly. This is the first place we've found with a pump-out station, but the hose is too short to reach the port side the "Star", and we do not have the room to turn around, so we wait for another stop with a pump-out.

In keeping with it being Halloween night, the boats are docked directly across from the morgue. After we return from dining at Bilello's, we are entertained by the trick-or-treaters parading by, the motorcycle cops cruising the neighborhood, and 3 cop cruisers pulling up across the bayou to look for someone who might be swimming/floating in the waterway. The guys stay up late drinking rum to give Troy a send off as he departs tomorrow to head back to Houston.

Intracoastal City to the Morgan City Dock

2007-10-30T18:33:00.000-07:00

Since all the maintenance issues are resolved, the days are becoming routine passages on the waterway, talking on the VHF and passing tows. The "Star" has the intracoastal "brown moustache or smile" above the waterline on the bow. If we had waxed the boat before departure, she would have been protected from this indignity. Now, we have another project!

Tom and Chris went into brownie withdrawal this afternoon, so a underway replenishment mission was conducted. As Bobby slowly motored up the port side of "Magic Reunion", Jenny passed a full container of brownies to Chris, receiving an unwashed, brownie crumbed container in return.

With their energy and strength restored, Tom and Chris are able to lead us into the Morgan City Dock to starboard just past the RR bridge. Another wall to tie up to, this one is in front of a large flood wall (with Morgan City in big letters) at the historic district. Nice area of town with a terrific marine hardware store. We all head to Rita Mae's for dinner and it's another delicious meal.

Mermantau River to Intracoastal City

2007-10-29T18:02:00.000-07:00

A gorgeous sunrise as we head on our way today. Each vessel goes aground at different points as we proceed out of the river and find the way back into the intracoastal waterway.

Chris gives a tug Captain a lesson on the proper flying of flags over the VHF when the Captain questions the Texas state flag up forward flying higher than the US flag on the backstay.

After refueling at the Shell Morgan Landing, we tie up to the wall immediately opposite the fuel dock. Tom starts up the generator and turns on the AC. Suddenly, the generator begins bobbing down. Immediately the problem is verbally escalated into a major compound issue with much discussion on when and how all the required maintenance on the generator /fuel system will take place. Okay guys, let's keep it simple and start with step 1. Ah yes, the water intake value was diverted for the washdown, let's just switch this back and voila, the AC works.

This area was flooded with about 12' of water from Hurricane Rita. The small store is now just a sandwich shop, with wonderful Po'Boys. Most businesses are closed and the volunteer fire station is a ruin.

Anyway, it's our first night tied up to a dock, so we all walk around a bit, including Burt (the cat), and make use of the shower facilities.

Shell Island to the Mermentau River

2007-10-28T17:51:00.000-07:00

First thing this morning, we turn on the VHF radio and are serenaded in Vietnamese by a shrimper (possibly a Buddhist prayer) as the sun rises. Okay, that was different.

As we leave Texas and motor into Louisiana, there is an definite increase of mosquitoes and Cajun accents amongst the tug Captains, along with changing vegetation. We also pass under the first bridge and through the first locks.

Entering into the Mermentau River to anchor and raft up in the oxbow, we see a doe swimming to one of the small islands. This is a lovely anchorage further appreciated while watching the almost full moon rise and the accompanying stars. Burt (the cat) is not as appreciative of the lovely environment. He can see the land, but can't seem to find the side of either boat that has the finger pier to get to the land.

Taylor Outfall Bayou to Shell Island

2007-10-27T17:58:00.000-07:00

We pull up the anchor early and follow "Magic Reunion" into to GIWW only to have the engine die, again. Bobby heads back into the engine room, while Troy and Jenny do the hip tow tie-up with Tom's boat, again. As we slowly pass Port Arthur, TX, tugs with barges in tow and oil tankers are passing us and sucking water out from under us. Even though Bobby is changing fuel filters and bleeding the system, repeated tries do not restart the engine.

Early afternoon, we anchor at Shell Island rafted up to "Magic Reunion" and still keep going over the fuel system. Finally, the decision is made to try adding fuel to the auxillary tank we've been running off of, Bobby fiddles around with the tank selector valves, and finally the engine starts! Sometimes when you think you've filled a tank, because it foams up with fuel at the mouth, it's actually only foaming due to fuel back up when filling up a little too fast. A successful switch over to the main fuel tank, so we are ready to go for tomorrow. Lesson learned: start with the basics, the fix is usually simple.

Getting Underway

2007-10-26T19:50:00.001-07:00

As hard as it is to depart from family and friends, we are away from the dock by 0840, out the Kemah Channel and into the Houston Ship Channel, doing 8 knots with the current (taking the memories of great times with us). Yeehah! Only 450 miles to go to Pensacola, Florida.

Bobby finally makes it past Redfish Island and into uncharted waters. It's official - Jim Kenworthy of S/V Dream Away witnessed the event with a call on the VHF radio.

A turn to port at Bolivar Roads puts us at the entrance of the GIWW with a dolphin escort. Latter in the afternoon, Tom attempts to dock at Steve's Landing and goes aground in the mud 10' from the dock. Okay, let's try the next stop, Stingaree's Landing. Nope, in the mud, twice, and not even that far out of the channel. Now, we are in for a long day of motoring until we get to Taylor Outfall Bayou to anchor for the night. "Star's" engine dies on the way, Bobby heads below to the engine room while Troy and Jenny do an immediate hip tow tie-up with "Magic Reunion" to continue on our way with tugs towing barges approaching from the east and west. The cause is a sludged up fuel filter on the engine (not changed after the fuel tanks were cleaned of sludge).

End of the day reward is the Harvest Moon, full and orange, rising from the horizon shortly after dark.

Preparing to Depart Watergate Yachting Center, Clear Lake, Texas

2007-10-25T07:39:00.000-07:00

With the intent to keep our adventures with a little "a" (vice a big "A", or the kind of excitement we can live without), we decide to head east enroute to the Florida on our way to the Caribbean via the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW), instead of heading offshore for 3-4 days to Biloxi, MS. Unceasing north winds in the Gulf of Mexico of 25-30 knot winds, building waves, and directly beating into the wind on the last day to Biloxi all sound like things to avoid.

Our buddy boat is the S/V Magic Reunion (Tom and Sandy Campbell). Tom, with Chris Blair, will crew her while Sandy and Robin Blair overland the car to Florida. Troy Jones of S/V Different Drummer will crew on the "Star" for a portion of this trip.

Yesterday, the manly men refuel both vessels. First up is "Magic Reunion". All aboard and off they head for the fuel dock...with the dinghy dock in tow (no one untied it from the boat)! Not so bad for the egos, as they noticed it tagging along after passing only a few slips. Next is the "Star". Bobby backs out of the slip just fine. But, oh, what's this?...just don't seem to be making any headway considering the respective engine RPMs. Maybe we're plowing a new channel? No...oops, forgot to engage the clutch button for the gear shift lever. Now we're moving!