Sunday, June 1, 2008

Miami Madness



Bobby dreaming of trading the Wanderin' Star for the old African Queen.
Jenny and Bobby at the No Name Pub on Big Pine Key (note the $1 bills all over), and the only alligators in The Keys are at the Blue Hole on Big Pine Key


Our Marathon/Vaca Key departure was Friday (30 May). Concerned about weather predictions of thunderstorms until then, we rented a car for two days. First time for Bobby driving The Keys up to Islamorada, Windley Key for the Fossil State Park (old coral rock quarry), and Key Largo, then went down to Big Pine Key to the Key Deer Refuge and the Exchange at NAS Key West (Sisgbee Island). Lovely scenery and water color variations along the way.

Friday got us to Plantation Key and Cowpens Anchorage. Please watch the west end of this anchorage as there are 3 shoaled sections extending into the area quite a bit. Not on any chart. Recommend heading up the ICW and coming in on the markers to the marina. Yes, we grounded on the outside one, had to be towed off, and only got a warning from the Park Rangers (even through no one has updated any charts or marked the area) after they inspected the boat and ensured Bobby had no outstanding warrants. TowBoat US knows this area well, as they frequent it a lot - we were by no means the first to go aground here. The rangers are concerned more with power boaters as they will try to power off, so the props wash out an area of sand and seagrass, causing more damage (this ensures a hefty fine).

To replenish seagrass areas, pea gravel is laid on the bottom, plugs of grass planted, and numerous white stakes are place throughout the area for birds to roost on. The bird poop provides nourishment for the seagrass, and voila.

Yesterday (Sat, 31 May), we anchored off the NW end of Elliot Key. This is where Charlotte ("Charlotte's Story") and her husband lived (1933-35) until the Labor Day Hurricane of '35. They combed the beach for their needs, fished and caught conch, and maintained a lime orchard for the owner of the property where they stayed for free. Incredibly, they survived the hurricane - most did not. The Miami skyline glowed in the distance and hoards of daytripping power boats clustered at every anchorage and shoal (most depart in the evening).

After refueling at Crane Park Marina (1 hour away at the north end of Key Biscayne), we arrived early this afternoon to No Name Marina (at the south end) after surviving the gaunlet of fast boats going everywhere and throwing up huge wakes off Key Biscayne. For the remainder of the day, boats of all lengths and size arrive in the harbor, people swim off the stern, and depart. The anchoring process, music and thong bikinis provided the entertainment. By evening, I drag Bobby out for a walk along the water overlooking Stiltsville (homes built over the water, only 7 left, now owned by the park) in the channel. The original Stiltsville started due to people not wanting to pay property taxes (I not be remembering this correctly), storms and poor upkeep took out most of the homes (not allowed to rebuild) Get back to land and pay taxes like everyone else - big brother decrees.

The Star heads out the Cape Florida Channel to the Atlantic for an overnight offshore passage
to Fort Pierce, or beyond, tomorrow. There is a 54' fixed bridge our main mast will not fit under in Miami and far too many bridges at frequent intervals requiring a lift for us to pass in Southern Florida along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).

Birds providing nutrients for a new seagrass bed.
Miami north of Key Biscayne, and a view in No Name Harbor.
Stiltsville as we head out of Cape Florida Channel.